For 40 Years, This
Russian Family Was Cut Off From All Human Contact, Unaware of WWII
In 1978, Soviet geologists prospecting in the wilds
of Siberia discovered a family of six, lost in the taiga
From Smithsonian Magazine
Siberian summers do not last long. The snows
linger into May, and the cold weather returns again during September, freezing
the taiga into a still life awesome in its desolation: endless miles of
straggly pine and birch forests scattered with sleeping bears and hungry
wolves; steep-sided mountains; white-water rivers that pour in torrents through
the valleys; a hundred thousand icy bogs. This forest is the last and greatest
of Earth's wildernesses. It stretches from the furthest tip of Russia's arctic
regions as far south as Mongolia, and east from the Urals to the Pacific: five
million square miles of nothingness, with a population, outside a handful of
towns, that amounts to only a few thousand people.
When the warm days do arrive, though, the
taiga blooms, and for a few short months it can seem almost welcoming. It is
then that man can see most clearly into this hidden world—not on land, for the
taiga can swallow whole armies of explorers, but from the air. Siberia is the
source of most of Russia's oil and mineral resources, and, over the years, even
its most distant parts have been overflown by oil prospectors and surveyors on
their way to backwoods camps where the work of extracting wealth is carried on.
Thus it was in the remote south of the
forest in the summer of 1978. A helicopter sent to find a safe spot to land a
party of geologists was skimming the treeline a hundred or so miles from the
Mongolian border when it dropped into the thickly wooded valley of an unnamed
tributary of the Abakan, a seething
ribbon of water rushing through dangerous terrain. The valley walls were
narrow, with sides that were close to vertical in places, and the skinny pine
and birch trees swaying in the rotors' downdraft were so thickly clustered that
there was no chance of finding a spot to set the aircraft down. But, peering
intently through his windscreen in search of a landing place, the pilot saw
something that should not have been there. It was a clearing, 6,000 feet up a
mountainside, wedged between the pine and larch and scored with what looked
like long, dark furrows. The baffled helicopter crew made several passes before
reluctantly concluding that this was evidence of human habitation—a garden
that, from the size and shape of the clearing, must have been there for a long
time.
It was an astounding discovery. The mountain
was more than 150 miles from the nearest settlement, in a spot that had never
been explored. The Soviet authorities had no records of anyone living in the
district.
The four scientists sent into the district to
prospect for iron ore were told about the pilots' sighting, and it perplexed
and worried them. "It's less dangerous," the writer Vasily Peskov
notes of this part of the taiga, "to run across a wild animal than a stranger,"
and rather than wait at their own temporary base, 10 miles away, the scientists
decided to investigate. Led by a geologist named Galina Pismenskaya, they
"chose a fine day and put gifts in our packs for our prospective
friends"—though, just to be sure, she recalled, "I did check the
pistol that hung at my side."
As the intruders scrambled up the mountain,
heading for the spot pinpointed by their pilots, they began to come across
signs of human activity: a rough path, a staff, a log laid across a stream, and
finally a small shed filled with birch-bark containers of cut-up dried
potatoes. Then, Pismenskaya said,
beside
a stream there was a dwelling. Blackened by time and rain, the hut was piled up
on all sides with taiga rubbish—bark, poles, planks. If it hadn't been for a
window the size of my backpack pocket, it would have been hard to believe that
people lived there. But they did, no doubt about it.... Our arrival had been
noticed, as we could see.
The low
door creaked, and the figure of a very old man emerged into the light of day,
straight out of a fairy tale. Barefoot. Wearing a patched and repatched shirt
made of sacking. He wore trousers of the same material, also in patches, and
had an uncombed beard. His hair was disheveled. He looked frightened and was
very attentive.... We had to say something, so I began: 'Greetings,
grandfather! We've come to visit!'
The old
man did not reply immediately.... Finally, we heard a soft, uncertain voice:
'Well, since you have traveled this far, you might as well come in.'
The sight that greeted the geologists as they
entered the cabin was like something from the middle ages. Jerry-built from
whatever materials came to hand, the dwelling was not much more than a
burrow—"a low, soot-blackened log kennel that was as cold as a
cellar," with a floor consisting of potato peel and pine-nut shells.
Looking around in the dim light, the visitors saw that it consisted of a single
room. It was cramped, musty and indescribably filthy, propped up by sagging
joists—and, astonishingly, home to a family of five:
The
silence was suddenly broken by sobs and lamentations. Only then did we see the
silhouettes of two women. One was in hysterics, praying: 'This is for our sins,
our sins.' The other, keeping behind a post... sank slowly to the floor. The
light from the little window fell on her wide, terrified eyes, and we realized
we had to get out of there as quickly as possible.
Led by Pismenskaya, the scientists backed
hurriedly out of the hut and retreated to a spot a few yards away, where they
took out some provisions and began to eat. After about half an hour, the door
of the cabin creaked open, and the old man and his two daughters emerged—no
longer hysterical and, though still obviously frightened, "frankly
curious." Warily, the three strange figures approached and sat down with
their visitors, rejecting everything that they were offered—jam, tea,
bread—with a muttered, "We are not allowed that!" When Pismenskaya
asked, "Have you ever eaten bread?" the old man answered: "I have.
But they have not. They have never seen it." At least he was intelligible.
The daughters spoke a language distorted by a lifetime of isolation. "When
the sisters talked to each other, it sounded like a slow, blurred cooing."
Slowly, over several visits, the full story of
the family emerged. The old man's name was Karp Lykov, and he was an Old Believer—a member of a fundamentalist Russian Orthodox
sect, worshiping in a style unchanged since the 17th century. Old Believers had
been persecuted since the days of Peter
the Great, and Lykov talked about it as though it had happened
only yesterday; for him, Peter was a personal enemy and "the anti-Christ
in human form"—a point he insisted had been amply proved by Tsar's campaign to modernize Russia by
forcibly "chopping off the beards of Christians." But
these centuries-old hatreds were conflated with more recent grievances; Karp
was prone to complain in the same breath about a merchant who had refused to
make a gift of 26 poods [940
pounds] of potatoes to the Old Believers sometime around 1900.
Things had only got worse for the Lykov family
when the atheist Bolsheviks took
power. Under the Soviets, isolated Old Believer communities that had fled to
Siberia to escape persecution began to retreat ever further from civilization.
During the purges of the 1930s, with Christianity itself under assault, a
Communist patrol had shot Lykov's brother on the outskirts of their village
while Lykov knelt working beside him. He had responded by scooping up his
family and bolting into forest.
That was in 1936, and there were only four
Lykovs then—Karp; his wife, Akulina; a son named Savin, 9 years old, and
Natalia, a daughter who was only 2. Taking their possessions and some seeds,
they had retreated ever deeper into the taiga, building themselves a succession
of crude dwelling places, until at last they had fetched up in this desolate
spot. Two more children had been born in the wild—Dmitry in 1940 and Agafia in
1943—and neither of the youngest Lykov children had ever seen a human being who
was not a member of their family. All that Agafia and Dmitry knew of the
outside world they learned entirely from their parents' stories. The family's
principal entertainment, the Russian journalist Vasily Peskov noted, "was
for everyone to recount their dreams."
The Lykov children knew there were places
called cities where humans lived crammed together in tall buildings. They had
heard there were countries other than Russia. But such concepts were no more
than abstractions to them. Their only reading matter was prayer books and an
ancient family Bible. Akulina had used the gospels to teach her children to
read and write, using sharpened birch sticks dipped into honeysuckle juice
as pen and ink. When Agafia was shown a picture of a horse, she recognized it
from her mother's Bible stories. "Look, papa," she exclaimed. "A
steed!"
But if the family's isolation was hard to
grasp, the unmitigated harshness of their lives was not. Traveling to the Lykov
homestead on foot was astonishingly arduous, even with the help of a boat along
the Abakan. On his first visit to the Lykovs, Peskov—who would appoint himself
the family's chief chronicler—noted that "we traversed 250 kilometres [155
miles] without seeing a single human dwelling!"
Isolation made survival in the wilderness
close to impossible. Dependent solely on their own resources, the Lykovs struggled
to replace the few things they had brought into the taiga with them. They
fashioned birch-bark galoshes in place of shoes. Clothes were patched and
repatched until they fell apart, then replaced with hemp cloth grown from seed.
The Lykovs had carried a crude spinning wheel
and, incredibly, the components of a loom into the taiga with them—moving these
from place to place as they gradually went further into the wilderness must
have required many long and arduous journeys—but they had no technology for
replacing metal. A couple of kettles served them well for many years, but when
rust finally overcame them, the only replacements they could fashion came from
birch bark. Since these could not be placed in a fire, it became far harder to
cook. By the time the Lykovs were discovered, their staple diet was potato
patties mixed with ground rye and hemp seeds.
In some respects, Peskov makes clear, the
taiga did offer some abundance: "Beside the dwelling ran a clear, cold
stream. Stands of larch, spruce, pine and birch yielded all that anyone could
take.... Bilberries and raspberries were close to hand, firewood as well, and
pine nuts fell right on the roof."
Yet the Lykovs lived permanently on the edge
of famine. It was not until the late 1950s, when Dmitry reached manhood, that
they first trapped animals for their meat and skins. Lacking guns and even
bows, they could hunt only by digging traps or pursuing prey across the
mountains until the animals collapsed from exhaustion. Dmitry built up
astonishing endurance, and could hunt barefoot in winter, sometimes returning
to the hut after several days, having slept in the open in 40 degrees of frost,
a young elk across his shoulders. More often than not, though, there was no
meat, and their diet gradually became more monotonous. Wild animals destroyed
their crop of carrots, and Agafia recalled the late 1950s as "the hungry
years." "We ate the rowanberry leaf," she said,
roots,
grass, mushrooms, potato tops, and bark, We were hungry all the time. Every
year we held a council to decide whether to eat everything up or leave some for
seed.
Famine was an ever-present danger in these
circumstances, and in 1961 it snowed in June. The hard frost killed everything
growing in their garden, and by spring the family had been reduced to eating
shoes and bark. Akulina chose to see her children fed, and that year she died
of starvation. The rest of the family were saved by what they regarded as a
miracle: a single grain of rye sprouted in their pea patch. The Lykovs put up a
fence around the shoot and guarded it zealously night and day to keep off mice
and squirrels. At harvest time, the solitary spike yielded 18 grains, and from
this they painstakingly rebuilt their rye crop.
As the Soviet geologists got to know the Lykov
family, they realized that they had underestimated their abilities and
intelligence. Each family member had a distinct personality; Old Karp was
usually delighted by the latest innovations that the scientists brought up from
their camp, and though he steadfastly refused to believe that man had set foot
on the moon, he adapted swiftly to the idea of satellites. The Lykovs had
noticed them as early as the 1950s, when "the stars began to go quickly
across the sky," and Karp himself conceived a theory to explain this:
"People have thought something up and are sending out fires that are very
like stars."
"What amazed him most of all,"
Peskov recorded, "was a transparent cellophane package. 'Lord, what have
they thought up—it is glass, but it crumples!'" And Karp held grimly to
his status as head of the family, though he was well into his 80s. His eldest
child, Savin, dealt with this by casting himself as the family's unbending
arbiter in matters of religion. "He was strong of faith, but a harsh
man," his own father said of him, and Karp seems to have worried about
what would happen to his family after he died if Savin took control. Certainly
the eldest son would have encountered little resistance from Natalia, who
always struggled to replace her mother as cook, seamstress and nurse.
The two younger children, on the other hand,
were more approachable and more open to change and innovation. "Fanaticism
was not terribly marked in Agafia," Peskov said, and in time he came to
realize that the youngest of the Lykovs had a sense of irony and could poke fun
at herself. Agafia's unusual speech—she had a singsong voice and stretched
simple words into polysyllables—convinced some of her visitors she was
slow-witted; in fact she was markedly intelligent, and took charge of the
difficult task, in a family that possessed no calendars, of keeping track of
time. She thought nothing of hard work, either, excavating a new
cellar by hand late in the fall and working on by moonlight when the sun had
set. Asked by an astonished Peskov whether she was not frightened to be out
alone in the wilderness after dark, she replied: "What would there be out
here to hurt me?"
Of all the Lykovs, though, the geologists'
favorite was Dmitry, a consummate outdoorsman who knew all of the taiga's
moods. He was the most curious and perhaps the most forward-looking member of
the family. It was he who had built the family stove, and all the birch-bark
buckets that they used to store food. It was also Dmitry who spent days
hand-cutting and hand-planing each log that the Lykovs felled. Perhaps it was
no surprise that he was also the most enraptured by the scientists' technology.
Once relations had improved to the point that the Lykovs could be persuaded to
visit the Soviets' camp, downstream, he spent many happy hours in its little sawmill,
marveling at how easily a circular saw and lathes could finish wood. "It's
not hard to figure," Peskov wrote. "The log that took Dmitry a day or
two to plane was transformed into handsome, even boards before his eyes. Dmitry
felt the boards with his palm and said: 'Fine!'"
Karp Lykov fought a long and losing battle
with himself to keep all this modernity at bay. When they first got to know the
geologists, the family would accept only a single gift—salt.
(Living without it for four decades, Karp said, had been "true
torture.") Over time, however, they began to take more. They welcomed the
assistance of their special friend among the geologists—a driller named Yerofei
Sedov, who spent much of his spare time helping them to plant and harvest crops.
They took knives, forks, handles, grain and eventually even pen and paper and
an electric torch. Most of these innovations were only grudgingly acknowledged,
but the sin of television, which they encountered at the geologists' camp,
proved
irresistible for them.... On their rare appearances, they would invariably sit
down and watch. Karp sat directly in front of the screen. Agafia watched poking
her head from behind a door. She tried to pray away her transgression
immediately—whispering, crossing herself.... The old man prayed afterward,
diligently and in one fell swoop.
Perhaps the saddest aspect of the Lykovs'
strange story was the rapidity with which the family went into decline after
they re-established contact with the outside world. In the fall of 1981, three
of the four children followed their mother to the grave within a few days of
one another. According to Peskov, their deaths were not, as might have been
expected, the result of exposure to diseases to which they had no immunity.
Both Savin and Natalia suffered from kidney failure, most likely a result of
their harsh diet. But Dmitry died of pneumonia, which might have begun as an
infection he acquired from his new friends.
His death shook the geologists, who tried
desperately to save him. They offered to call in a helicopter and have him
evacuated to a hospital. But Dmitry, in extremis, would abandon neither his
family nor the religion he had practiced all his life. "We are not allowed
that," he whispered just before he died. "A man lives for howsoever
God grants."
All three Lykovs had been buried, the
geologists attempted to talk Karp and Agafia into leaving the forest and
returning to be with relatives who had survived the persecutions of the purge
years, and who still lived on in the same old villages. But neither of the
survivors would hear of it. They rebuilt their old cabin, but stayed close to
their old home.
Karp Lykov died in his sleep on February 16,
1988, 27 years to the day after his wife, Akulina. Agafia buried him on the
mountain slopes with the help of the geologists, then turned and headed back to
her home. The Lord would provide, and she would stay, she said—as indeed she
has. A quarter of a century later, now in her seventies herself, this child of
the taiga lives on alone, high above the Abakan.
She will not leave. But we must leave her,
seen through the eyes of Yerofei on the day of her father's funeral:
I
looked back to wave at Agafia. She was standing by the river break like a
statue. She wasn't crying. She nodded: 'Go on, go on.' We went another
kilometer and I looked back. She was still standing there.
Anon. 'How to live substantively in our
times.' Stranniki
['Wanderers'], 20 February 2009, accessed August 2, 2011; Georg B. Michels. At War with the Church: Religious Dissent in Seventeenth Century
Russia. Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1995; Isabel Colgate. A Pelican in the Wilderness: Hermits, Solitaries and Recluses. New
York: HarperCollins, 2002; 'From taiga to Kremlin: a hermit's gifts to Medvedev,' rt.com,
February 24, 2010, accessed August 2, 2011; G. Kramore, 'At the taiga dead end'.
Suvenirograd ['Souvenirs of Interesting places'], nd, accessed August 5, 2011;
Irina Paert. Old Believers, Religious Dissent and Gender in Russia, 1760-1850. Manchester:
MUP, 2003; Vasily
Peskov. Lost in the Taiga: One
Russian Family's Fifty-Year Struggle for Survival and Religious Freedom in the
Siberian Wilderness. New York: Doubleday, 1992
A documentary on the Lykovs (in Russian) which
shows something of the family's isolation and living conditions, can be viewed here.
Read more: http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history-archaeology/For-40-Years-This-Russian-Family-Was-Cut-Off-From-Human-Contact-Unaware-of-World-War-II-188843001.html#ixzz2UCEDcODq
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