Dutch Pancake Recipes, Sweet and Savory
Call it a Bismarck, a Dutch
baby or a puffy pancake. This airy, skillet-size popover is tasty any way you
spin it. Try it two ways, with recipes for a sweet version topped with
rhubarb-pear compote and a savory one loaded with steak and eggs
FILL IT UP WITH FRUIT
| Vanilla-infused poached pears and rhubarb top this classic Dutch pancake, a
puffy, skillet-size popover. ...OR PILE ON THE STEAK AND EGGS | In this savory
version, seared flank steak, scallions and scrambled eggs make for a hearty meal.
Armando Rafael for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Heather Meldrom,
Prop Styling by Stephanie Hanes
HAVE A FEW eggs on hand? Some milk? A stick of butter
and a wide, sturdy pan? You're more than halfway to a Dutch pancake. The name
notwithstanding, this dish is less a conventional pancake and more like the
love child of a crêpe and a soufflé. Think: crisp edges and a soft, improbably
airy center.
Depending on where
you're from, you might have encountered the dish under the aliases Bismarck, puffy
pancake or Dutch baby. Its lineage is likely German (that's Dutch as in deutsch).
Strew it with lemon juice and a sprinkling of sugar, or load it with seasonal
fruit and softly whipped cream, and call it whatever you want. One of the
charms of this breakfast is its versatility.
A blender or food
processor can come in handy for making the batter—the more vigorously it's
whipped, the loftier the results will be. But lacking one, a good strong arm
can certainly do the trick. In fact, with an ingredient list comprised of
kitchen staples and a method that's more or less gadgetry-free, this is one of
those recipes that's perfect to pull out of your back pocket when you find your
vacation rental stocked with little more than a cast-iron pan and a measuring cup.
Just make sure your audience is assembled when you pull the pancake from the
oven: As with a soufflé, its puff has a limited life span.
Next comes dressing it
up. At this time of year, when all the summer produce is enough to make your
head spin, one tactic is to treat the pancake like a pie crust. Fill its center
with a simple compote of whatever's at its peak. Berries are a no-brainer, but
in June, while rhubarb is still around, I grab a bouquet of rosy stalks, slice
them into chunks and simmer them into silky submission along with a pear, a
little sugar and a split vanilla bean. Pretty and pink, but with a nice sharp
edge, the results make the perfect complement to the pancake's eggy richness. A
bonus: Leftover rhubarb-pear compote is delightful slathered on toast, too.
Still, though sweet
toppings are customary for Dutch pancakes, if I had to pick a favorite version,
it would be a recipe that tacks toward the savory. One came to me recently, in
a moment of Anglophilic inspiration. I thought of Yorkshire pudding, the traditional
companion to a British Sunday roast. What is this popover, I reasoned, but a
mini–Dutch pancake?
So, what would I get
if I nixed the sugar from my usual recipe and, instead of making a hulking
roast beef, just piled the pancake high with some soft-scrambled eggs,
scallions and juicy slices of seared flank steak? An irresistible variation on
steak and eggs, that's what.
DUTCH PANCAKE WITH
RHUBARB-PEAR COMPOTE
Total Time: 45 minutes Serves: 4
For the compote:
- 1 large pear (such as Anjou or Bosc), peeled, cored and
cut into ½-inch dice
- 2 medium stalks rhubarb, trimmed, halved lengthwise and
cut into ¾-inch slices
- 1 vanilla bean
- ⅓ cup sugar
- Splash of water
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
For the Dutch pancake:
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 4 large eggs
- 1 cup whole milk
- 1 cup flour
- 2 teaspoons sugar
1. Make rhubarb-pear compote: In a small
saucepan, combine pears and rhubarb. Slice vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape
seeds into saucepan. Stir in vanilla bean, ⅓ cup sugar and water. Bring to a gentle
simmer over low heat and cook until fruit is soft and compote is a rosy pink,
20-25 minutes. Off heat, stir in lemon juice. Set compote aside to cool.
2. Make Dutch pancake: Preheat oven to 425
degrees. Add butter to a 12-inch ovenproof dish or cast-iron skillet and place
in oven until skillet is hot and butter melts, about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, in a
blender or food processor, combine eggs, milk, flour and 2 teaspoons sugar on
medium-high speed until batter is smooth. (It will look wetter than typical
pancake batter.) Remove skillet from oven, swirl melted butter until bottom of
pan is thoroughly coated, then quickly pour batter into pan and return pan to
oven. Bake until sides have puffed up 2-3 inches and turned golden and center
is tender and custardy, about 22 minutes. (Don't open oven door during
cooking—this can cause the pancake to fall.)
3. Spoon pear-rhubarb compote into center of
pancake and serve immediately.
DUTCH PANCAKE,
STEAK-AND-EGGS-STYLE
Total Time: 45 minutes Serves: 4
For the steak and
eggs:
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 5 large eggs
- 4 tablespoons half and half
- 1 (1-pound) flank steak
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 bunch scallions, trimmed
For the Dutch pancake:
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 4 large eggs
- 1 cup whole milk
- 1 cup flour
- 1 teaspoon salt
1. Prepare eggs: Melt butter in a small, lidded
saucepan over lowest heat. In a small bowl, vigorously whisk eggs and
half-and-half until well combined. (Mixture should be a uniform golden yellow,
not streaky.) Pour eggs into saucepan and stir gently. Cook, stirring mixture
every couple of minutes, until eggs are gently cooked, still creamy and a bit
loose, 12-15 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat and cover. (Should you need to
keep eggs warm a bit longer, make a double boiler by filling a large saucepan
with ½-inch water. Bring water to a simmer, then set small, covered saucepan
containing eggs inside larger pan, making sure bottom of small saucepan does
not touch water.)
2. Prepare steak: Turn on broiler. Season both
sides of steak generously with salt and pepper, then place on a small baking
sheet. Scatter scallions on top of and around steak and place under broiler.
After 3 minutes, remove scallions and set aside. Flip steak, place back under
broiler and cook 3 minutes more. Remove steak from broiler and let rest about
10 minutes before slicing thinly, against the grain. Reserve drippings from
pan.
3. Meanwhile, prepare Dutch pancake: Preheat
oven to 425 degrees. Add butter to a 12-inch ovenproof dish or cast-iron
skillet and place in oven until skillet is hot and butter melts, about 3
minutes. In a blender or food processor, combine eggs, milk, flour and salt on
medium-high speed until batter is smooth. Remove warm skillet from oven, swirl
melted butter until bottom of pan is thoroughly coated, then quickly pour
batter into pan and return pan to oven. Bake until sides have puffed up 2-3
inches and turned golden and center is tender and custardy, about 22 minutes.
(Don't open the oven door during cooking—this can cause the pancake to fall.)
4. Spoon scrambled eggs into center of pancake,
top with slices of steak, drippings from broiler pan and scallions. Season with
salt and pepper and serve immediately.
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