So Farro, So Good

So Farro, So Good

Farro may be an ancient grain, but that doesn’t mean it has to be used in a traditional way. In fact, its nutty, slightly sweet taste makes it perfect for experimenting

By Rosamaria Mancini in the Wall Street Journal

BEING ANCIENT HAS never been so hip. Thanks to a growing interest in whole grains, farro—long a staple in the Italian diet—has re-established itself as the tasty, healthy peer of rice, barley, quinoa and an alternative to white flour.

“From a nutritional perspective, farro is hard to beat,” says Elena Dogliotti, a nutritionist and researcher at Milan’s Umberto Veronesi Foundation. Rich in vitamins and minerals, it’s low in fat and gluten and high in protein and essential amino acids. (But celiacs take note: It isn’t gluten-free.)

Said to have originated in the Fertile Crescent, this nutty, slightly sweet, pleasingly chewy grain was found in the tombs of Egyptian kings. Later brought to Italy—where it was called “pharaoh’s wheat”—it was used to feed the Roman legions and became an integral part of local dishes. “It’s a return to the past,” says Marianna Franchi, the popular Italian food blogger and chef behind Mentaeliquirizia.com. “People have started to realize what a great gift from the earth farro is and how much you can do with it.”

But it can be intimidating. Farro is used to describe three cultivated hulled wheat species: farro piccolo (einkorn), farro medio (emmer, considered the “true” farro), and farro grande (spelt). And in its whole-grain form, which has the most nutrients, farro has to be soaked overnight and can take an hour to cook.

A versatile ingredient, farro can be used in everything from salads to risottos. But just because this grain is traditional doesn’t mean you have to be. “You can be creative with it and the results are healthier and delicious,” says Ms. Franchi, who did just that for her new cookbook “Di farina in farina” (Flour Into Flour). Farro flour, a lower-calorie substitute for white flour, can be used to make sweets, like this rich carrot cake or brioche with raisins, and even pasta.

Advertisement

“Experiment with it.” says Dr. Dogliotti. “It can only do you good.”

THE RECIPE // Carrot Cake With Orange and Ginger

Total Time: 1.5 hours | Serves: 8

For the cake:
100g whole hazelnuts
180g granulated sugar, plus 1 tsp
3 eggs
70g sunflower seed oil
Juice and zest of 1 orange
Pinch of salt
250g carrots, grated
1 tsp ginger powder
250g farro flour
16g baking powder

For the glaze:
200g powdered sugar
2 tsp water
Chopped hazelnuts for decorating
Zest of ½ orange

1. Preheat oven to 150°C. Roast hazelnuts until skin begins to fall off, about 10 minutes. Once cool, wipe with a cloth to remove any remaining skin. Grind in a blender, with 1 tsp sugar, until fine.

2. Raise oven to 180°C. Using an electric mixer, combine eggs and sugar. Slowly add oil, orange zest and juice, and salt. Add the hazelnuts, grated carrots and ginger. When well mixed, add farro flour and baking powder.

3. Place mixture in a 26 cm pan covered with parchment paper. Bake until golden in color, about 40 minutes.

4. Prepare glaze, mixing powdered sugar and water. Once cake is cool, decorate with the glaze. Sprinkle with chopped hazelnuts and orange zest.

—Adapted from Marianna Franchi’s “Di farina in farina”