Josef Centeno’s Recipe for Spring Miso-Strone Soup

Josef Centeno’s Recipe for Spring Miso-Strone Soup

This Japanese-Italian fusion recipe from chef Josef Centeno of L.A.’s Orsa & Winston combines the tastiest elements of miso soup and minestrone in a bowl loaded with spring vegetables

By Kitty Greenwald in the Wall Street Journal

The Chef: Josef Centeno

His Restaurants: Bäco Mercat, Bar Amá, Orsa & Winston and Ledlow, all in Los Angeles

What He Is Known For: Blending a broad spectrum of global cuisines with abundant adventurousness and zero pretentiousness. Effortlessly moving between casual and white-tablecloth dining.

AT FIRST GLANCE, you might not think Japanese and Italian cooking make a comfortable match. But Josef Centeno doesn’t see things the way the rest of us do.

The two cuisines collide happily at the chef’s downtown Los Angeles restaurant Orsa & Winston, and what emerges from the open kitchen—this “miso-strone,” for example, Mr. Centeno’s final Slow Food Fast contribution—seems as inevitable as it is unexpected. “When the soup is presented,” Mr. Centeno said, “the light red broth looks like miso. Then you taste it and notice all the flavors of a minestrone. But it is not done in a heavy-handed way.”

The flavorful broth comes together very quickly. Though completely vegetarian it has a meaty heft thanks to three umami-packed ingredients: kombu (Japanese dried kelp), tomato paste and miso. Ladled over a mix of silken tofu and spring vegetables—pea tendrils, ramps, mushrooms and asparagus—it makes a satisfying meal. Garnishes of oregano-infused olive oil and raw scallion give each serving a final East-meets-West flourish.

“Italian food is hearty and in-your-face, and Japanese food is very restrained and reserved,” Mr. Centeno observed. “The fun is in combining the two without taking anything away from either.”

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Spring Miso-Strone Soup

Total Time: 25 minutes Serves: 4-6

• 8 cups vegetable stock
• 1½ (4-inch-square) pieces kombu (Japanese dried kelp) [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kombu]
• ¼ cup red miso paste
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• ½ cup shiitake mushrooms cut into bite-size pieces
• ½ cup asparagus cut on the bias into bite-size pieces
• 4 ramps or scallions trimmed and cut on the bias into bite-size pieces, plus 2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions for garnish
• ¼ cup olive oil
• 3 sprigs fresh oregano
• 1 cup pea tendrils or baby spinach
• 1 cup cubed silken tofu

1. In a large pot over high heat, bring stock to a boil. Add kombu, turn off heat and let sit until kombu becomes pliable, 15 minutes. Discard kombu. Set pot over medium heat and stir in miso and tomato pastes. Bring to a simmer.

2. Add mushrooms and blanch until just tender, about 2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer mushrooms to a colander. Toss to dry. Next, blanch asparagus and ramps until brightly colored and just tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer to colander and set aside. Let broth continue simmering gently.

3. Meanwhile, heat oil in a small pot over medium heat. Once hot but not smoking, fry oregano until leaves turn deep green, about 1 minute. Off heat, let oregano steep until it infuses oil, 5 minutes. Discard oregano sprigs.

4. To serve, divide pea tendrils, tofu and blanched vegetables among four bowls. Ladle hot broth over vegetables, then drizzle with oregano olive oil and garnish with sliced scallions.