Hooni Kim’s Recipe for Pan-Fried Seafood Scallion
Pancake
For a quick meal or crowd-pleasing
snack, chef Hooni Kim offers a streamlined version of the crisp-fried seafood
scallion pancake he serves at Hanjan in Manhattan
By Kitty Greenwald in the Wall Street Journal
The
Chef: Hooni Kim
His restaurants: Danji and Hanjan, both in New York City
What He’s Known For: Deceptively simple, masterfully executed Korean cooking,
both traditional and modern
NOT EVERYONE returns to his roots via Michelin-starred kitchens. But
that’s how it happened for Hooni Kim. The Korean-born chef came to New York
City in 1982, at the age of 10, but didn’t start cooking his native cuisine
until he had already graduated from culinary school and worked under some of
the city’s pre-eminent chefs.
By age 32, Mr. Kim was at Masa, the
celebrated Japanese restaurant in Midtown Manhattan. “The chef loved Korean
food, so I made it for [the staff] meal three times a day,” he said. “Some of
the dishes on my menus still come from back then.” Cooking Korean on the fly
for discerning chefs, Mr. Kim applied equal parts improvisation and technical
know-how—a combination that distinguishes his food even today.
Take this squid, scallion and
scallop pancake, his first Slow Food Fast contribution. Like the deep-fried
version at his restaurant Hanjan, it is thick, multi-textured, briny and just a
little bit sweet. But this one is pan-fried, as it’s done at his other
restaurant, Danji. “To get the pancake extra crisp, the batter must be very
cold,” the chef said. “That way, when it hits the hot oil it immediately fries
and gets really crispy.” Still, that improvisational spirit prevails; Mr. Kim
isn’t one for fussy recipes at home. “Even if you don’t fry this right,” he
promised, “it will still be good.”
Pan-Fried
Seafood Scallion Pancake
Total Time: 30 minutes Serves: 4
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- ¼ cup cornstarch
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1 cup club soda
- 1 teaspoon grated garlic
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 egg yolk
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon rice vinegar
- 1 teaspoon mirin rice wine
- ¼ teaspoon sesame oil
- 3 medium fresh squid, tentacles and body separated, cleaned and cut into bite-size pieces
- ½ pound bay scallops
- 2½ bunches scallions, white and light green parts only, cut into 2-inch pieces
- 6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1.
In a large bowl, mix together flour, cornstarch, baking powder, club soda,
garlic, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, sugar and egg yolk. Season with salt and
pepper. Chill batter in freezer while preparing remaining ingredients. (If
holding longer than 10 minutes, transfer to refrigerator.)
2.
Make dipping sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together remaining soy sauce, rice
vinegar, mirin and sesame oil. Set sauce aside.
3.
Stir squid, scallops and scallions into chilled batter.
4.
Set a medium nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons vegetable
oil. Once oil is very hot and shimmering, ladle in ½ the pancake batter and
spread evenly across pan. Sear pancake until browned on bottom and crisp at
edge, 3-4 minutes. Flip and cook until reverse is browned and center is cooked
through, about 3 minutes more. Transfer to a paper-towel lined plate and
sprinkle with salt. Repeat with remaining batter and oil.
5. Cut pancakes into quarters and serve with dipping sauce.
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