Mike
Lata’s Recipe for Triggerfish Schnitzel With Sunchokes and Greens
At the Ordinary in
Charleston, S.C., chef Mike Lata serves up triggerfish as schnitzel—breaded and
pan-fried until golden—with sides of roasted vegetables, a heap of greens and a
scrumptious caper-brown butter vinaigrette. Here’s a quick version to make at
home
By Kitty Greenwald in
the Wall Street Journal
“THE SEA IS
wild and you have to be flexible,” said Mike Lata, the Charleston, S.C.-based chef known for his way with seafood. With this recipe, in
which the fish is given the schnitzel treatment and served with sunchokes,
mustard greens and a caper-brown butter vinaigrette, he’s found an ingenious
way to make the most of the seasonal catch on the South Carolina coast.
The Chef: Mike Lata
His restaurants: FIG and the Ordinary, both in Charleston, S.C.
What he is known for: Seasonal, straightforward cooking that helped
make Charleston a destination food town. Trumpeting the Low Country’s bounty
and prolific coastline.
Right now, that means
triggerfish. “It’s unique in that its flesh is firm and doesn’t easily
overcook,” Mr. Lata explained. “Amberjack, grouper, porgy and swordfish all
work well, too.” A more delicate fish won’t stand up to the pounding, breading
and pan-frying called for in this recipe. “Halibut or something else that is
super flaky and lean dries out,” the chef said.
Mr. Lata’s first Slow
Food Fast contribution, this schnitzel is a staple at the Ordinary, his
Charleston oyster hall where the menu evolves according to what’s coming out of
the ocean at any given time. It’s a way of using different fish in a
preparation his customers find familiar and satisfying. “The flavor combination
is classic,” he said. “What’s not to love?”
Triggerfish Schnitzel [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schnitzel] With
Sunchokes [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerusalem_artichoke] and Greens
Total Time: 30 minutes Serves: 4
- 1 pound sunchokes, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 5 tablespoons olive oil
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 4 (5-ounce) triggerfish fillets
- 3 eggs
- 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 2 cups panko [Japanese bread crumbs.....like try another way like American bread crumbs, or even Tempura batter]
- 2 cups mustard-green leaves, finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1 tablespoon capers
- 3 Meyer lemons, zest finely grated and fruit segmented
- 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. On a baking sheet,
toss sunchokes with 1 tablespoon oil, salt and pepper. Spread out in a single
layer and roast until browned and tender, about 20 minutes. Set aside.
Meanwhile, set a small pot half-filled with water over high heat.
2. Put a fish fillet in a large Ziploc bag and lay
it on a flat surface. Gently pound fillet with flat-side of a meat mallet or
rolling pin until uniformly about ½-inch thick. Remove from bag and repeat with
remaining fish.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs and
mustard. Pour flour into a second bowl and panko into a third. Season fillets
with salt on both sides.
4. Working with one fillet at a time, dredge both
sides in flour, then in egg and finally in panko. Set breaded fish aside and
repeat with remaining fish.
5. Heat remaining oil in a large skillet over
medium-high heat. Once hot, pan-fry fillets, two at a time, until golden and
crisp, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to warm serving plates and repeat
with remaining fish.
6. Meanwhile, place a steamer over pot of simmering
water. Make sure water doesn’t touch bottom of steamer. Gently steam greens,
covered, until just softened, about 2 minutes. Set greens aside.
7. Pour off half of oil from frying pan, then
place pan over medium heat. Add butter and cook until sizzling and golden, 2
minutes. Sauté capers, lemon zest and segments, roasted sunchokes and parsley
until butter smells nutty and darkens slightly, 2 minutes more.
8. Spoon sunchoke mixture and sauce over
schnitzel. Serve with greens and sprinkle with salt.
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