Dearly Expensive: The Cost of a Wedding Cake
Anne Kadet talks to Ron Ben-Israel
and other bakers about $15 slices of cake
By Anne Kadet in the Wall Street Journal
What sorts of rare, exotic
ingredients go into a $15 slice of cake? If you’re talking about a New York
wedding cake, try sugar, flour and eggs. Maybe some butter.
Yes, at the priciest New York
bakeries, $15 is the starting point for a slice of wedding cake. And even the
more modest local bakeries command hefty prices. According to a recent survey
by the Knot, the average Manhattan wedding cake cost $8.58 per portion last
year, compared to $4.08 nationwide. Yes, the cake can cost more than the ring.
So what do you get when you’re
prepared to blow your life savings on dessert? I checked out Ron Ben-Israel
Cakes, perhaps the city’s best-known wedding cakery. First, I would have gotten
a consultation with Mr. Ben-Israel himself, a TV celebrity and self-described
“pastry genius” who works out of an ultramodern 4,000-square-foot loft in the
Garment District. I could have brought the whole family along to sample from
dozens of cake flavors and fillings.
“If you’re going to pay $3,000 to
$5,000 for a cake, the father of the bride will want to be present,” says Mr.
Ben-Israel.
The bakery, which creates about 400
custom cakes a year, would coordinate with the wedding dress designer and
floralist. It’s important, you see, that elements on the cake match, say, the
beading and lace on the dress. “We custom-mold them in-house,” says Mr.
Ben-Israel.
There’s a lot of labor involved. In
the Ben-Israel studio, which looks like a science lab, seven artisans and
interns were busy frosting cakes and sculpting sugar peonies for the coming
season. A large, complicated cake design can start months in advance (sugar flowers
never die), and take days to decorate.
But perhaps the most essential
element you’re buying is the latest cake style—not, God forbid, some tired 2014
design ripped from Modern Bride. “It’s like fashion, so of course you pay
more,” says Mr. Ben-Israel.
In their quest to outdo their peers
in scale and originality, New York’s brides and grooms can, and have, ordered
cakes assembled entirely from Rice Krispies treats, layered into a
deconstructed tree, served upside down from a chandelier or studded with
thousands of Swarovski crystals for that mall-bling effect.
But leave it to Brooklyn to produce
gluten-free, dairy-free vegan wedding cakes.
Lael Cakes owner Emily Lael
Aumiller, whose food allergies give her hives, says she spent years perfecting
her recipes. Instead of eggs, she uses a gelatinous flaxseed meal paste.
Safflower oil substitutes for butter. The flour is a mix of ground millet,
tapioca, arrowroot and brown rice.
I envisioned a brick of frosted
granola, perhaps with a few twigs thrown in. But when I made the trek to the
Bed-Stuy loft where Ms. Aumiller lives and bakes her smaller orders, I was
blown away.
“Wow,” I said, sampling an
orange-carrot slice. And it wasn’t a “Wow, I’m going to throw up,” sort of wow.
The pastry was moist and tender. It tasted like cake. Really great cake.
At $13 to $14 per portion, of
course, it had better be delicious.
‘If you’re going to pay $3,000 to
$5,000 for a cake, the father of the bride will want to be present.’
—Ron Ben-Israel
In New York City, there is truly a
wedding cake for every budget. Up in the Wakefield section of the Bronx, Eddie
Pian, the second-generation owner of E&L Bakery, greets a young bride-to-be
and her pal at a cafe table in his storefront bake shop. Dressed in a white
undershirt, worn apron, shorts and sneakers, he guides his clients through the
options on his Dell Laptop. A big, four-tier cake with sugar roses—but no
bling, he says—will run about $500.
Here, the cakes, available with a
choice of four frostings or whipped cream, run $2 to $3 a portion. This
includes a choice of fillings like the pineapple sauce popular with the
neighborhood’s West Indian community.
And down by the Verrazano Bridge,
Bay Ridge Bakery owner Nick Nikolopoulos says he can work with a Toyota budget,
“or roll with the Bentleys. You pay, we play!”
The crowded backroom kitchen of his
neon-lit storefront, which also supplies cheesecake and lemon-meringue pie to
diners around the tri-state area, is abuzz with kitchen help from Greece,
France and Latin America. Each baker has a radio blasting his favorite ethnic
music, producing a cacophony Mr. Nikolopoulos seems to adore.
While he once made a skeleton-topped
cake for a couple who married in Green-Wood Cemetery, most of his cakes, which
cost $4 to $10 per slice, tend toward the traditional. “Simple! Classy!” he
exclaims, thumbing through his iPad cake portfolio.
Mr. Nikolopoulos refuses requests
for trendy flavors like passion fruit. “The guests will say, ‘This is
disgusting,’” he says. “And will you tell them that you picked it? No! You’re
going to blame the baker!”
Like other pastry chefs, he says
margins on wedding cakes tend to be smaller than those for other celebration
cakes because the clients require so much hand-holding. He’ll often take a loss
on a wedding order if the long-term outlook looks promising. “I want the couple
to return with the kids for the christenings, the communions, the birthday
parties,” he says.
And if that fails? Divorce cakes
topped with cleavers and fake blood are a growing business.
“But I try not to specialize in
divorce cakes,” he says. “I hope people live happily ever after.”
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