Alligator—the Other, Other White Meat
Prices rise as TV shows, foodies
boost popularity of unusual entree
By Arian Campo-Flores in the Wall Street Journal
MIAMI—Florida, home to booming
markets for condos and tourism, can add another sizzling sector to the list:
alligator meat.
Prices for cuts of alligator tail,
ribs and tenderloin have doubled in the past three years, reaching record
highs. “There’s just more demand than we can meet,” said Allen Register, owner
of the Gatorama alligator farm and roadside attraction in Palmdale.
The meat, which comes from both wild
and farm-raised reptiles, fetches $12 to $15 a pound wholesale, up from $6 or
$7 a pound in 2012, said Genie Tillman, owner of Parker Island Gator Farm in
Lake Placid. Data from the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission
show that farmed alligator meat cost about $4 to $5 a pound wholesale between
1980 and 2010, then jumped to $8.25 a pound in 2013, the most recent figure
available.
Demand is rising—and not just in
Florida—in part because the alligator industry and state Department of
Agriculture and Consumer Services have spent years promoting the meat at
seafood and restaurant conferences as a lean, high-protein alternative to
chicken and pork, farmers and trappers say.
That has encouraged chefs and
foodies to experiment with it, beyond fried nuggets, the most common
preparation, they say. On the agriculture department’s website, recipes include
“alligator scaloppine with sauce Dijon” and “gator tail picadillo.”
TV also is giving the trend more
bite. The meat was featured on an episode of the Travel Channel’s “American
Grilled” last year. Alligator-themed reality TV shows such as Animal Planet’s
“Gator Boys” and “Swamp People” on History “are getting more exposure for the
whole industry,” said John Easley, development representative at the state
Bureau of Seafood and Aquaculture Marketing.
Though alligators once were an
endangered species, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service removed them from the
list in 1987. The number of wild alligators now tops one million in Florida,
says the state agriculture department. And some 30 Florida farmers raise them
for their meat and hides. Because the farmed animals are harvested at a younger
age, their meat usually is more tender.
Mr. Register said demand has been so
strong for his packages of tail and ribs that he began buying additional meat
from another farmer. As head of the Florida Alligator Marketing and Education
Committee, an industry group, he promoted the meat vigorously at trade shows in
the past. Now, he barely does.
“We haven’t had to spend any money
or time on it,” Mr. Register said. “Why promote it when we can sell everything
we produce?”
Some in the industry are branching
out. Tracy Howell, owner of Florida Alligator Processing in Plant City, said he
is working on developing alligator sausages and patties that he hopes to get on
store shelves within a year.
“I think the market will continue to
get stronger,” he said. “People are realizing it’s not just a novelty thing and
that it’s good prepared different ways.”
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