Four Spring Artichoke Recipes That Think Outside the
Steamer
When artichokes return to farmers’
markets in mid-spring, our hearts skip a beat. These recipes are really four
mash notes to the vegetable from chefs around the country
By Kitty Greenwald in the Wall Street Journal
Spaghetti
with Artichokes and Bottarga
Total Time: 35 minutes Serves: 4
Peel off and discard dark outer
leaves of 6 medium artichokes. Rub remaining leaves with flesh of half
a lemon to prevent browning. Cut off and discard top third of artichokes.
Use a paring knife to peel away woody parts of stems until light, tender flesh
is exposed. Halve artichokes lengthwise. Use a spoon to remove hairy chokes
from centers of artichokes, then rub interiors with lemon.
Cut each artichoke lengthwise into
¼-inch slices, then transfer to a bowl, filled with ice water and juice
of 1 lemon. Set aside.
In a medium, lidded sauté pan over
medium-low heat, sauté 6 cloves garlic, sliced, with 1 teaspoon chili
flakes and 6 tablespoons olive oil until garlic is light golden and
fragrant, 5 minutes.
Drain artichokes and add to pan with
garlic, along with 1 cup water (or enough to just cover artichokes), juice
of 1 lemon and a generous pinch of salt. Cover pan and continue to
cook until artichokes become just tender, about 10 minutes. Remove lid and turn
off heat.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted
water to a boil over high heat. Add 1 pound dried spaghetti and cook
until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta water.
Once pasta is cooked, reheat
artichokes over medium heat. Transfer cooked pasta, 3 tablespoons chopped
flat-leaf parsley and reserved pasta water to artichokes. Toss until sauce
is creamy and coats noodles. Off heat, garnish with zest of 1 lemon, 1-2
ounces Bottarga di Muggine, finely grated, and 3 more tablespoons
roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley. Season to taste with salt and lemon
juice. Drizzle olive oil over top and serve immediately.
—Adapted from Mona Talbott of
Talbott & Arding Cheese and Provisions, Hudson, N.Y.
Shaved
Raw Artichoke Salad
Total Time: 15 minutes Serves: 2
Peel off and discard dark outer
leaves of 2 small artichokes. Rub remaining leaves with flesh of half
a lemon to prevent browning. Cut off and discard top third of artichokes.
Use a paring knife to peel away woody parts of stems until light, tender flesh
is exposed. Halve artichokes lengthwise. Use a spoon to remove hairy chokes
from centers of artichokes, then rub interiors with lemon.
Thinly slice each artichoke
lengthwise, then transfer to a medium bowl. Toss with juice from 1½ lemons,
½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon chili flakes, 3 tablespoons torn
fresh mint leaves, 3 tablespoons torn fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves,
3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives, 3 tablespoons torn chive blossoms
(optional), ½ cup roughly chopped almonds and ⅓ cup
Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings. Season to taste with more lemon juice, salt
and herbs. Let rest until artichoke slices tenderize, 5 minutes.
To serve, toss salad with ¼ cup olive
oil, adjust seasoning and garnish with more cheese shavings, if desired.
—Adapted from Joshua McFadden of Ava
Gene’s, Portland, Ore.
Quick
Braised Artichokes with Peas, Carrots and Fresh Ricotta
Total Time: 35 minutes Serves: 4
Peel off and discard dark outer
leaves of 8 medium artichokes. Use a chef’s knife to remove remaining
tough leaves and skin until tender artichoke heart is exposed. Rub exterior
with flesh of half a lemon. Halve artichokes lengthwise. Use a spoon to
remove hairy chokes from centers of artichokes, then rub interiors with lemon.
Quarter hearts, then transfer to a bowl filled with ice water and juice of 1
lemon. Set aside.
In a medium lidded pot over
medium-high heat, bring 2 quarts chicken stock, zest of 1 lemon, 1
cup olive oil, 6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, 6 cloves garlic, 1
cup white wine, 1 sprig rosemary, 1 tablespoon toasted coriander
seeds and 1 tablespoon toasted fennel seeds to a simmer. Reduce heat
to medium and continue to simmer until broth is flavorful, about 15 minutes.
Add artichoke hearts, cover, and
gently simmer until just tender, 10-15 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer
cooked artichokes to a plate.
Add 4 medium carrots, peeled and
thinly sliced, to pot of simmering water and cook until tender, about 7
minutes. Return artichokes to pot, along with 1 cup fresh or thawed frozen peas. Simmer until peas are bright green,
about 2 minutes more. Turn off heat and season to taste with salt.
Ladle vegetables into a deep serving
dish or individual bowls. Strain remaining cooking broth and pour it over
vegetables until they are about ⅓ submerged. Garnish with 2 tablespoons
roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley and 2 tablespoons roughly chopped
tarragon. Dollop 1 cup fresh ricotta (total) over top. Finish with a
squeeze of lemon juice, a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle
of flaky sea salt. Serve with country bread.
—Adapted from Eric Korsh of North
End Grill, New York
Five-Spice
Fried Artichokes
Total Time: 60 minutes Serves: 2-4
Roast garlic: Preheat oven to 350
degrees. Cut off top of 1 whole garlic head. Rub cut side with olive
oil, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Roast garlic in
oven until outside is golden brown and cloves are tender, 30-45 minutes. Remove
from oven and let cool, then squeeze cloves out of head and set aside.
In a medium sauté pan over medium
heat, toast 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1 tablespoon anise seeds,
1 tablespoon fennel seeds, 1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns and 3
cloves, shaking pan, until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Transfer toasted
spices to a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and finely grind. In a large
bowl, combine ground spices with 2 cups rice flour. Set aside.
Prepare artichokes: Peel off and
discard dark outer leaves of 4 large artichokes. Rub remaining leaves
with flesh of half a lemon to prevent browning. Cut off and discard top
third of artichokes. Use a paring knife to peel away woody parts of stems until
light, tender flesh is exposed. Halve artichokes lengthwise. Use a spoon to
remove hairy chokes from centers of artichokes, then rub interiors with lemon.
Quarter artichokes, then transfer to
a bowl filled with ice water and juice of 1 lemon. Set aside.
Make sauce: In a large pot over
medium heat, sweat 2 medium yellow onions, diced, in 3 tablespoons
butter until translucent, about 10 minutes. Add roasted garlic cloves and
cook 1 minute. Pour in 1 cup white wine and cook until liquid thickens
and lightly coats pan, about 10 minutes. Stir in 1 more tablespoon butter
and turn off heat. In a blender or food processor, purée sauce until smooth.
Season with salt to taste and set aside.
Meanwhile, fry artichokes: In a
large pot over medium heat, bring 2 quarts canola oil to 350 degrees,
using a thermometer to monitor temperature. (Maintain steady temperature
throughout cooking.) Drain artichokes, and toss in seasoned rice flour until
well coated. Shake off excess flour, then fry artichokes, in 2 batches, until
golden brown and tender, about 5 minutes per batch. Use a slotted spoon to
transfer fried artichokes to a paper-towel lined plate. Season with salt.
To serve, place fried artichokes
over sauce on a serving platter. Garnish with dollops of orange marmalade
and 3 tablespoons crisp bacon lardons.
—Adapted from Christopher Gould of
Central Provisions, Portland, Maine
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