Chipotle vs. Science
Health-food advertising depends on
the eagerness of the customer to be fooled.
By Holman W. Jenkins, Jr. in the Wall Street Journal
Stuart Chase, an FDR aide who coined
the term “New Deal” and began his career as a food-safety regulator, once said:
“The very first law in advertising is to avoid the concrete promise and
cultivate the delightfully vague.”
He was being cynical, but his advice
has been thoroughly adopted by food marketers peddling to consumers who would
probably consider themselves his philosophical heirs. Desperate to revive
flagging sales, Pepsi
announced this week that it would no
longer use the artificial sweetener aspartame, which will no doubt lead to
“aspartame-free” being prominently placed on packaging where Coke shoppers can
notice it.
Not that Pepsi will say that
aspartame is bad for you. There are product disparagement laws in many states,
plus Pepsi itself fed aspartame to its customers for years. In fact, to its
credit, Pepsi this week cited “decades of studies” finding no health risk and
admitted it was simply surrendering to a prejudice of customers who’ve been
listening to faux food-safety campaigners on the make.
On the make describes perfectly Chipotle
Mexican Grill :
In announcing this week plans to stop using genetically modified ingredients,
the fast-food chain couldn’t say GMO-free food was safer and healthier.
Instead, the company was at pains to suggest with delightful vagueness an
unconcrete promise. “They say these ingredients are safe,” Chipotle founder Steve Ells told CNN
“but I think we all know we’d rather have food that doesn’t contain them.”
This is called marketing;
periodically Chipotle rolls out a new claim about organic ingredients or
friendly treatment of animals to keep its brand fresh in the public’s mind.
Over the years the courts, in enforcing the Lanham Act, a federal law banning
false advertising, have carved out a considerable zone for “puffery.” Puffery,
as one case puts it, is “an exaggeration or overstatement expressed in broad,
vague, and commendatory language. Such sales talk is considered to be offered
and understood as an expression of the seller’s opinion only, which is to be
discounted as such by the buyer.”
A defense of puffery, ironically, is
that no “statistically significant part of the commercial audience holds the
false belief allegedly communicated by the challenged advertisement.”
It’s exactly this safe harbor, which
Chipotle frolics in, that the food industry risks surrendering by its
persistent conflation of the terms natural, healthy and safe. Though Pizza Hut
was ultimately defeated, its legal Stalingrad in the early 2000s against Papa
John’s over its slogan “better ingredients,
better pizza” left behind an influential legacy. Purina is currently waging a
fight with pet-food manufacturer Blue Buffalo, whose incantatory use of terms
like “antioxidant” and “phytonutrient” has been mocked on Saturday Night Live.
Blue Buffalo’s founder, a former cigarette marketer, cheerfully has told
Business Week “smoke and mirrors” is the “stuff we were good at.”
Of course, because such advertising
depends on the eagerness of the customer to be fooled, a better solution than
lawsuits might be an education system that lowers the general level of idiocy
in the population. We also shouldn’t exaggerate the effect of marketing: 99% of
the reason people eat at Chipotle is the food, not the advertising. And 99% of
the function of advertising is to remind customers that a product exists, not
to deliver specific claims about it.
Chipotle’s health-food messaging
isn’t about the food anyway; it’s about the customer and his sense of
entitlement and moral vanity.
Still, competitors have to compete
against such messages, and Chipotle has been good at getting its messages
trumpeted in the media, though perhaps revulsion is starting to set in. Not a
week before its own aspartame announcement, Pepsi’s CEO Indra Nooyi, during
an earnings call, went off on the public ignorance that such marketing both
fosters and exploits, noting that millennials think “real sugar” is a health
food, and that “organic, non-GMO products” are the epitome of nutrition “even
if they are high-salt, high-sugar, high-fat.”
Heartening too has been the press
reaction to Chipotle. Mother Jones pointed out that “GMOs are totally safe,”
while Gizmodo.com pronounced the company’s position “some anti-Science
pandering bull-expletive.” An L.A. Times op-ed by two scientists stated, “More
than two decades of research indicate that GMOs are not only safe for humans
and the environment, but also contribute to global sustainability and poverty
alleviation.”
If anyone of note congratulated
Chipotle for its stance, we haven’t heard it—and that’s a revelation in itself.
Chipotle is not really on a crusade for healthier eating but trying to sell
more burritos. Expect the company to shut up for a while.
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