Harvesting
Wild Salmon and Those Down on the Farm
From two Letters to
the Editor in the Wall Street Journal
I
have seen firsthand the effects of fish farming in the open seas (“Farmed
Salmon Gets Respect,” Personal Journal, Sept. 25). It is devastating
to the wild salmon runs in the vicinity. Escapes of farmed salmon are frequent
occurrences in open-net pen fish farming. Salmon that escape can enter rivers
and breed with wild salmon, causing reduced genetic diversity and fitness in
wild populations. In addition to escapes, the east coast Canadian industry has
been plagued by sea lice and disease outbreaks. Sea lice are becoming
increasingly resistant to treatment, prompting industry to use more toxic
chemicals to control outbreaks, sometimes illegally, resulting in the deaths of
crustaceans such as lobster.
I
commend Whole Foods for buying all of its farmed salmon for its Midwest U.S.
stores from a land-based salmon farmer in Iceland. The Atlantic Salmon
Federation, an international wild Atlantic salmon conservation organization, is
working in partnership with the Conservation Fund Freshwater Institute in West
Virginia to develop the technology to grow Atlantic salmon in land-based,
closed-containment facilities. The result has been a farmed product that has no
need for antibiotics or harsh chemicals to control disease and parasites,
faster growth, no uneaten food or feces contaminating the sea floor, no disease
spread to the environment and no escapes. There are entrepreneurs who are using
this technology, and their product is beginning to be marketed. This should
please discriminating chefs who truly want great taste plus a product that
doesn’t harm the environment.
Bill Taylor
President
Atlantic Salmon Federation
St. Andrews, New Brunswick
As
a sport fisherman who fishes annually in British Columbia for salmon and who
occasionally purchases the farmed variety, I concur that both are delicious.
However, taste comparisons between wild-caught and farmed salmon are suspect
because they involve different species. Farmed salmon are almost always
Atlantic salmon, while wild-caught will be one of several entirely different
species (Chinook, coho, sockeye, etc.). The obvious question: Is a taste
difference caused by the salmon variety or how it is raised?
Also,
the issue of frozen versus nonfrozen fish is problematic. If a nonfrozen fish
is mishandled during processing and shipping, it can taste decidedly unfresh. A
properly frozen salmon can last months without taste degradation.
Environmental
concerns about aquaculture may be serious but shouldn’t be overstated unless
the source of corroborating evidence can be vetted. The conflicts of interest
are many, with financially threatened commercial fishermen working in concert
with animal-rights and other activists to attack the salmon-farming industry.
Carl B. Lind
La Jolla, Calif.
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