A Culinary Calling in Tokyo

A Culinary Calling in Tokyo

Chef Nobuaki Fushiki’s Mission to Revive Japan’s Fermented-Food Culture

An assortment of small dishes at Shiojiri Jozojo. Shiojiri Jozojo

By Melinda Joe in the Wall Street Journal

When Nobuaki Fushiki says that his food is alive, he means it—literally. The dishes he serves at his Japanese restaurant Shiojiri Jozojo, in Tokyo’s Shibuya district, are based on naturally fermented ingredients such as homemade miso, soy sauce, and hishio—a thick and chunky soybean paste. Even the sashimi is marinated in hishio, sake, or enzyme-rich koji (rice inoculated with the mold aspergillus oryzae).

The restaurant showcases Japan’s long tradition of fermentation, which Mr. Fushiki fears is quickly disappearing. As more and more consumers opt for industrially manufactured miso, soy sauce and vinegar, artisanal producers are dwindling. “Everyone has forgotten the value of fermented foods and the reason why we’ve always used them in our cuisine,” he says.

The Chef: Mr. Fushiki has made it his mission to bring fermented-food culture back into the mainstream. The Tokyo native started his career cooking at Italian and Japanese restaurants in the capital—including the popular Mametankin, another fermented-food specialist. His interest in fermentation began a decade ago, when a question about food preservation prompted him to delve into the world of microbes. Since then, he’s written 10 books on the subject and holds workshops to teach the art of fermentation to home cooks. “There’s no point to eating the miso and soy sauce you can buy at supermarkets,” he says. “Those products have been pasteurized and contain zero live enzymes and good bacteria.” Studies suggest that the so-called friendly bacteria in fermented foods can contribute to overall intestinal health.

Food & Drink: Shiojiri Jozojo is a joint venture with the city of Shiojiri in Nagano Prefecture—an area known for wine and sake production—and the food is meant to complement the alcohol. The marinated sashimi platter demonstrates the affinity between fermented foods and fermented beverages. The dish comes with a variety of small but intensely flavorful bites—“drunken” amaebi shrimp steeped in sake and soy sauce, frilly blood-clam skirts tossed in koji and topped with sansho (a Japanese pepper), silvery striped herring fillets brushed with hishio on one side and amazake (a sweet, fermented rice drink) on the other. The menu changes seasonally, but house specialties include the succulent, koji-cured grilled salmon and a salad of edible flowers served with creamy amazake or savory natto (fermented soybean) dressing. The wine, beer and sake at Shiojiri Jozojo all are domestically produced. Mr. Fushiki insists that Japanese food pairs best with Japanese drinks because the ingredients “come from the same soil.”

The Setting: The restaurant is next to Yoyogi Park. The neighborhood has a laid-back vibe and is home to a handful of restaurants specializing in natural wine and organic food. Shiojiri Jozojo’s casual interior feels like a cross between a wine bar and an apothecary shop. Jars filled with pickled and dried ingredients and vats of Mr. Fushiki’s still-fermenting condiments line the surface of the wooden counter, which dominates the space. The restaurant seats a mere 19 people, and space can fill up quickly.

Our Tip: Don’t pass on the sake. Umami-dense fermented foods shine with Japan’s national tipple, which is high in amino acids such as glutamate, the main substance associated with umami.

Shiojiri Jozojo, Shizuna Building 1/F, 1-45-13 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Tel: +81-3-6407-2362. Dinner for two is about 10,000 yen ($85).