The New Breed of High-Performance Wool Clothing

The New Breed of High-Performance Wool Clothing

Long a tried-and-true textile for outdoor apparel, wool is getting engineered for higher performance by companies like Voormi, Duckworth and others

FOR CENTURIES, SAVVY outdoor adventurers have layered up in wool for its warmth-trapping, water-repelling, sweat-wicking and stink-fighting properties. But this age-old textile continues to evolve, thanks to a handful of sheep ranchers and entrepreneurs across the U.S. who, after decades of exporting their wool, are keeping the highest-quality fibers here to develop new products for the American market. A revitalization of the entire domestic wool supply chain—from textile mills to wash operations to skilled cut-and-sew factory workers—has enabled companies to experiment and push the materials to new levels.

Some ranchers, for example, have teamed up with entrepreneurs to create thin, soft-as-silk 100% wool shirts. Other companies have developed high-performance outerwear that is as water-repellent and durable as synthetic alternatives—perfect for battling blizzards, or at least the ski slopes.

American sheep, it turns out, have a leg up on their cousins in Australia, from which most merino wool is imported. Sheep raised in high-elevation states—like Montana, Wyoming and Colorado—produce wool that’s more tightly “crimped,” meaning its fibers have more bends in them. (In the summer, free-range sheep are brought to higher elevations to graze—up to 12,000 feet—which encourages them to grow especially fine, crimpy wool to keep themselves warm and dry.)

The more crimped the wool is, the better it will be at trapping air pockets, which results in more warmth and breathability—a feature that’s especially desirable for winter sportswear.

Here are a handful of the most innovative American brands that are taking wool to new heights.

Farm to Feet

Mount Airy, N.C.

To boost the durability of its tough but cozy trail-friendly socks, the two-year old company Farm to Feet blends wool from Targhee sheep, which produce a slightly coarser and more durable fiber, with a finer merino variety from the Rambouillet breed. The wool then undergoes a chemical treatment to reduce shrinkage when washed. Finally, nylon and elastic are knitted in so the socks hold their shape and won’t bunch around the ankle during hikes or runs. Farm to Feet’s Hickory Over-the-Calf Waders ($27), have extra arch support and a snug fit so they can be worn inside wading boots. In addition to socks tailor-made for hiking and trekking, extreme cold and other activities, the brand offers models suited for everyday use. farmtofeet.com

Voormi

Pagosa Springs, Colo.

Voormi—a small maker of base layers, jackets and hoodies—sources its merino wool fibers from local sheep with superfine fleece. The sheep spend their summers grazing at elevations of up to 12,000 feet in the peaks of Colorado’s San Juan National Forest, and are brought down in the fall to their home ranch until spring shearing rolls around. That cycle of dry mountain air, harsh elements and cold temperatures spurs the wool fibers to take on a very tightly crimped form. The company’s three-layer AN/FO jacket ($549) available next month, has a nearly 100% woven-wool exterior, but is water repellent and performs like a traditional ski shell. voormi.com

Duckworth

Dillon, Mont.

The 12,500 sheep of the Helle Rambouillet Merino bloodline that supply the wool for the recently launched Duckworth brand roam the mountains and plains of Dillon, Mont., at elevations of 6,000 to 9,000 feet. To create its super soft base layers and outer wear, Duckworth applies a patent-pending technique that uses just heat, pressure and water (no chemicals of any kind) to make the garments shrink-resistant when washed and to stabilize the wool so that clothing retains its shape without the use of Lycra or other synthetics. The micro-ribbed Men’s Hummingbird Crew ($80) offers a silky, thin layer of warmth, and is ideal for skiing, hiking and other activities. duckworthco.com

Imperial Stock Ranch

Shaniko, Ore.

The 143-year-old, family-owned Imperial Stock Ranch raises Columbia sheep, which were first bred in the late 1800s by crossing Rambouillet sheep with a larger variety. The Columbia graze on high desert plains at elevations around 3,000 feet, and produce coarser wool than breeds like Merino that results in thick, chunky, super warm yarn. Imperial uses fibers with a relatively large average diameter of 22 microns for outerwear, blankets and sweaters—and provided the yarn that Ralph Lauren used to design the Team U.S.A. sweater uniforms for the 2014 Sochi Olympics. Imperial’s blankets ($78-$306) and apparel undergo no chemical finishing processes. imperialstockranch.com

Ramblers Way

Kennebunk, Maine

Started by Tom’s of Maine founder, Tom Chappell, Ramblers Way began as a small sheep farm in Maine but now sources sustainable wool from larger operations breeding Rambouillet sheep in the West. Ramblers Way uses only superfine 18-micron-diameter fibers and employs a worsted-yarn construction to make its next-to-skin garments super smooth. Instead of washing its wool with chemicals or chlorine, the company employs a time-consuming, small batch process using biodegradable enzymes. The company also uses only natural dyes (or none at all) in their products, as is evidenced in its plain vanilla Men’s Wool Long Sleeve Cross Neck ($100), a light jersey-knit top. ramblersway.com

Tried and True // Wool Breeks

SOMETIMES AN old-school accessory comes back simply because it works well and looks sharp. Case in point: wool breeks, the traditional knee-length trousers that have recently found favor among nordic skiers, duck hunters, beaglers and commuting cyclists.

Alan Oldfield, who took over Spencers Trousers in England’s Calder Valley nearly four decades ago, has been doing a brisk business in shooting breeks. His staff of 12 has been busily filling roughly 5,000 orders a year for the handmade pants.

Breeks are worn with knee-high wool socks and buckle just below the kneecap. They are not to be confused with their baggier cousins, “plus-twos” and “plus-fours.” Those garments buckle 2 and 4 inches, respectively, below the knee, and are most often seen on the golf course.

Mr. Oldfield makes those, too, but it’s the breeks business that has been ticking up and has him shipping plenty of orders throughout Scandinavia, Germany, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, France, Canada and the U.S. The breeks come in various wools, as well as moleskin and corduroy, and range in price from $155 to $200 a pair.

“You wear them for warmth, because the material doesn’t absorb water, and then you have the wool stocking, so you don’t have to wash your trousers every time after being in the outdoors,” Mr. Oldfield said (the stockings catch most of the dirt).

Yet even he was surprised recently when orders started to come from London addresses. He asked a customer what he planned to use the breeks for. Cycling to work, the customer said.

“Some people like to dress down, other people like to dress up,” he said. “They don’t want modern stuff. They want this old stuff. I hope it isn’t a fashion trend because we are here for the long term.”

—Matthew Futterman in the Wall Street Journal