Dipping Into India, Dunkin’ Donuts Changes Menu
Adapting to Local Tastes, Chain
Downplays Doughnuts, Adds Veggie Burgers
By Preetika Rana in the Wall Street Journal
NEW DELHI—Diksha Sharma visits her
neighborhood Dunkin’ Donuts three times a week but has yet to buy its doughnuts
or coffee. The 23-year-old publicist goes there for the burgers.
“I don’t think anyone would come
just for a doughnut,” Ms. Sharma said, tucking into a Dunkin’ Donuts Original
Tough Guy Chicken Burger. “My grandmother only recently found out what a
doughnut is.”
It is a harsh truth America’s
doughnut chain has had to embrace in Asia’s third-largest economy: Many Indians
just don’t like doughnuts, and even the ones that like them are unlikely to buy
them by the dozen.
The Massachusetts-based chain has
had to radically rework its menu in India and rebrand itself through an
advertising campaign to let consumers know it offers more than a Bavarian Cream
and coffee. In India it now has almost as many burgers on the menu as McDonald’s . All its burgers in India, like
McDonald’s, are beef-free.
Dunkin’s decision to put burgers on
the menu for the first time anywhere underscores challenges international
chains can face adapting to cultural differences.
With a growing middle class that is
just discovering the joys of eating out, India has been touted as one of the
last frontiers for global restaurant chains. McDonald’s, Pizza Hut, KFC,
Subway, Taco Bell, Cinnabon, Starbucks and most recently Burger King are among the many that have landed
in the subcontinent with mixed success.
Some inventions for India become
best sellers, like McDonald’s Chicken Maharaja Mac, a beef-free take on the Big
Mac, while others disappear, like Cinnabon’s attempt to make a savory cinnamon
roll with spicy ground mutton.
McDonald’s and Burger King offer
chicken and vegetarian burgers, because most Indians won’t eat beef. Starbucks
launched in India with potato sandwiches and continues to serve eggless cookies
for people with dietary restrictions. Fried-chicken chain KFC offers a Veg
Rockin’ Burger for vegetarians.
Dunkin’ Donuts’ franchise owner in
India— Jubilant FoodWorks Ltd. —was one of the pioneers
of the Western fast-food business in the country. Eighteen years ago, the
company brought Domino’s to India, which has grown into the country’s largest
foreign food chain thanks to a menu that appealed to local tastes.
Its 700 outlets sell more local
favorites like Tandoori Chicken and Peppy Paneer than pepperoni pizzas. Earlier
this year, it rolled out a spicy banana pizza, which it hoped would be popular
with consumers in Southern India.
Its pizza success, however, didn’t
prepare Jubilant for its dive into doughnuts. When Dunkin’ first opened in
2012, its outlets were surprisingly empty in the mornings, which is when it
gets most of its sales in the U.S., said Dev Amritesh, president of Dunkin’
Donuts India.
“A few people would come every day.
But that’s not enough to build a business,” he said. “They were mostly expats
trying to replicate their life here.”
Dunkin’ had made a big mistake,
analysts say. Indians don’t start their days with frosted sweets, and they
don’t pick up breakfast on the way to the office.
“The whole idea of Dunkin’ abroad is
breakfast on-the-go,” said Saloni Nangia, the president of market-research firm
Technopak Advisors. “In India, that concept doesn’t exist. People usually eat
breakfast at home with their families.”
Jubilant said it had always expected
a slow start and had planned to add more savory items to its menu. Adapting to
Indian tastes for Dunkin’ Donuts has meant turning the menu and the timetable
of its outlets upside-down.
Dunkin' Donuts added four beef-free
burgers to its menu this year. Among them: the Original Tough Guy Chicken
Burger, right, stuffed with fiery mustard sauce and a Mexican-flavored…
Earlier this year Domino’s invented
a spicy banana pizza for customers in southern India, where bananas are widely
grown and used in cooking. Domino’s India
McDonald’s Chicken Maharaja Mac is a
beef-free take on the Big Mac. Hindus, who make up most of India’s population,
don’t eat beef for religious reasons. Junho Kim for The Wall Street Journal
In October, Dunkin’ introduced some
India-inspired doughnuts—stuffed, topped and glazed with everything from rice
pudding to saffron to crushed pistachios. Dunkin’ Donuts India
KFC’s India menu includes a Paneer
Zinger, made with a spiced cheese patty. Junho Kim for The Wall Street
Journal
KFC serves a Masala Corn Rice Bowl
in India. Junho Kim for The Wall Street Journal
Dunkin’s Brute Tough Guy Veg Burger
uses a black kidney bean patty. Junho Kim for The Wall Street Journal
Subway’s Indian outlets have plenty
of vegetarian toppings, including this spicy chickpea patty. Junho Kim for
The Wall Street Journal
Burger King launched in India in
November with a beef-free menu. The fast food chain serves Mutton Whoppers,
pictured, as well as Chicken and Vegetarian Whoppers. Burger King India
It launched in 2012 using the
classic Dunkin’ Donuts model, opening at 7 a.m. to catch people on the way to
work. It quickly found out that few customers were dropping by so early and its
racks of doughnuts wouldn’t be consumed till late in the day. It was being
treated as a pastry shop where people go for a quick dessert.
“That’s when we decided the role of
the brand needs to change,” said Dunkin’s Mr. Amritesh. The company had to make
the drastic shift from a “predominately a.m. brand” to “a p.m. brand.”
Dunkin’ pushed its opening hours to
later in the day and spent close to a year coming up with a new all-day menu
that didn’t depend on doughnuts or dunking. It introduced eight burgers with
ingredients ranging from potatoes to spicy vegetables to pepper chicken. This
year, Dunkin’ added four new ones, including the Brute Tough Guy Veg Burger.
The new burgers, sandwiches and
wraps were so popular they now sell as many as doughnuts, and the company is
living up to its unique Indian brand name, “Dunkin’ Donuts & More.”
The swift shift to sandwiches was a
smart move, analysts say, because Indians saw Dunkin’ as no more than a pastry
shop when it arrived.
“The general attitude of people was,
‘Sure, I’ll eat a doughnut for dessert. But give me lunch first,’ ” Ms. Nangia
of Technopak said. “You can’t change people—at least not overnight—so Dunkin’
was smart enough to change itself.”
Dunkin’ Donuts doesn’t disclose its
sales figures but said it has been so successful that it is confident it can
grow from around 35 outlets in India today to 100 by 2017.
In October, for the Hindu festival
of Diwali, the coffeehouse introduced some India-inspired doughnuts—stuffed,
topped and glazed with everything from rice pudding to saffron to crushed
pistachios. According to Mr. Amritesh, the top-selling doughnuts here are
“Death by Chocolate” and “It’s a Mistake,” a white chocolate doughnut topped
with guava and chili.
Some of the lessons Dunkin’ Donuts
has learned in India—like the power of diversifying the menu—will now be
applied in its relaunch in the next few months in Brazil, where it closed in
2005.
So far in India, the company seems
to be benefiting from joining the global burger wars.
The Dunkin’ Donuts in New Delhi’s
posh Green Park neighborhood was packed on a recent evening. Most customers
were munching on burgers, a few of them had doughnuts set aside for dessert.
“I’m crazy about burgers,” said Ms.
Sharma, the publicist. “It goes against their whole identity of course. But as
long as it’s tasty, I don’t care.”
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