A Recipe for Broiled
Ricotta Cheese With Brown-Butter Mushrooms From Ox Restaurant in Portland, Ore.
Chefs Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñónez
Denton serve up this take on Argentine provoleta. Their recipe calls for
broiling rich ricotta cheese until browned and bubbly, then topping it with
sautéed shiitake mushrooms and an umami-rich brown-butter vinaigrette
The Chefs: Greg Denton
and Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton
Their Restaurant: Ox, in Portland, Ore.
What They Are Known
For: A combination of
Argentine-style grill mastery and classical French training. Redefining the
steakhouse with Latin American inspiration and the finest Pacific Northwest
produce.
IS THERE ANYTHING better than melted cheese? In Argentina, they
take rounds of provoleta, the local version of provolone, and grill them
over a live fire. Once the cheese browns, it’s often moved to a casserole dish,
where it bubbles away until heated through and oozy. When chefs Gabrielle
Quiñónez Denton and Greg Denton opened their Argentine-inflected restaurant,
Ox, in Portland, Ore., they knew they had to put some version of this molten
treat on the menu.
“It started with
provoleta, and then I remember saying, ‘It’s good, but as soon as it cools down
it’s hard for people to eat,’ ” said Mr. Denton. Ms. Denton added, “We wanted
to make sure the last bite is as good as the first.” After some
experimentation, they hit upon this dish, their third Slow Food Fast recipe: creamy ricotta, broiled and topped with
seared mushrooms and a brown-butter vinaigrette.
At Ox, they make a
rich ricotta daily, especially for this dish. To get a similar result at home,
buy the freshest ricotta you can find, preferably one made without stabilizers;
their addition can mean that the cheese wasn’t properly strained and will
therefore produce a watery result. And this is no time to opt for low-fat: The
higher the fat content, the creamier the final product. Under the broiler, the
cheese’s top will brown and blister while its interior relaxes into custardy
lushness. Because you’ll want to scoop up every last bit, be sure to serve with
plenty of toasted bread.
—Kitty Greenwald in the Wall Street Journal
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