God Bless America
A wiki link on this song can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/God_Bless_America
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
China's First and Second Island Chains
China's First and
Second Island Chains
The map is just one opinion.
Yellow journalism
Yellow journalism
A wiki link on the subject can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_journalism
Extortion
Extortion
A wiki link on the subject can be
found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extortion
CEP
CEP
A wiki link on the subject can be
found at:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circular_error_probable
Here's a
modified excerpt from an email to some
of my relatives on the same subject.
Now if you did not take, or
understand statistics, then the bottom line is accuracy.
For example, a
smaller CEP is a better number, like when
shooting artillery or mortars, or even during bombing, during missile strikes,
or even Naval Gunfire training in already established impact areas. Often this
training was and is with iron bombs and things, too. The idea is the weight is
as important as the boom during training.
Even I lived
during the Cuban Missile Crisis, and CEP was a much discussed subject in the
newspapers and at the time (circa early 1960's), all for common citizens like
me. I was in the 9th grade at the time.
I lived within a
mile of the USA Pentagon, and the Russian missile CEP was reported as around 5
miles. So you go figure what you might do if this should happen to you where
you live.
By the way, we
never knew what was the expected “boom” from a Russian nuclear bomb on top of a
missile, though generally most imagined the worst.
Salt and Fat in our diets during hard times
Salt and Fat in our diets during hard
times
During good times, I believe both
salt and fat are downgraded in the more sedentary type practices. I think I
understand why, also. Often both get abused in our intake and cooking during
good times. Hence we are usually advised
by both our doctors and our societies to slow down our consumption, or even
regulate it as best we can. Often it has to do with high blood pressure or just
being overweight, also.
Yet if times should get harder, like
we work more in the physical labor side of things, like gardening a lot, or
cutting and splitting wood, then salt consumption should increase. My references
are three fold: my Marine training, my
marathon running, and my advice from a couple of doctors. Even during Marine training,
we had to take salt pills twice a day just to keep up with all our sweating of
salt. Our collars where often white with
salt. The goal I believe is something like 2.5 grams of sodium a day (plus some
potassium)...maybe less during good times (as some say). So I suggest just to
keep that in mind. After all, all of us do need some sodium to live. And salt always has sodium in it. Now
potassium has to come from elsewhere, too.
By the way, keeping hydrated (like
with water or some sport's type drink) does help a lot, also. One usual symptom
of being dehydrated is cramps, and then it usually takes water and hours to
recover. There is no quick fix that I know of (other than an intravenous sodium
drip). For me it usually takes around 4 hours for the cramps to go away. Getting cramps when doing unusual chain saw
work in warm weather is a good example. Marathon running is my example. How
much water is about right? Often it is peeing enough, and the pee being clear
enough to make you satisfied.
The same idea of ingestion goes for
fat consumption during hard times. What we
are made of requires some fat in our diets, plus some fat often adds flavor to
our food, too. Now while I don't have a recommended number I trust, I do know
we need some fat in our diet to increase our healthiness and resistance to
disease, even to help our healing during any hard times situation. And fat does
have a relatively short shelf life, usually around 6 months or less, though
Crisco type fats tend to last over a year in unopened containers. Once opened,
I am not sure what the shelf life is reduced to, but I am confident it is
reduced.
So regulate salt and fat consumption
as best you can during good times if you are sedentary; and consider extra
consumption during any hard times situation, especially if one is dong more
energetic type work or exercise. If not sure how much, then consider the idea
of moderation in all things, and adjust from there.
Of course one has to get some salt
and fat, also. But that is another situation and story.
And, as always, if you have the time
and opportunity, go get your own doctor's opinion about what to do about sodium
and potassium in your own diet. But in lieu to this opportunity, consider these
stories, too.
And don't start any change quickly, like starting new physical
labor as an older and usually more sedentary person. One obvious example is shoveling snow.
To get sick or even worse, like having a heart attack and living, is a burden
on all. Even dying can be considered a burden, too. So Plan C is to build up physical work
gradually, and in the meantime max out on the years of experience one also has
often built up. The idea is called "mission first", and the mission
is to help our Family survive as best we can.
And part of that mission is our salt
and fat consumption.
Coccinellidae (lady bugs)
Coccinellidae (lady bugs)
A wiki link on the subject can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coccinellidae
Tuesday, October 29, 2013
Three Letters Re: Advice on Silver or Gold Jewelry for Barter?
Three
Letters Re: Advice on Silver or Gold Jewelry for Barter?
From the Survival Blog
Friday,
Mar 13, 2009
Hi -
I just read your comments regarding not holding jewelry for precious metals holdings. As one who makes his living (and has done so for decades) in jewelry, coins and guns, I fully agree with your comments. I have had many customers in over the years that had decided that jewelry was a good place to invest in precious metals, and after I went over it with them, they have all switched to good products.
There are some very good fake jewelry out there these days that will fool many, even with the use of a stone and acid. I learned the old fashioned way, using straight nitric acid rather that the acid mixes used today, which are much more fool-able and can tell much closer the karat and whether or not an items is solid, filled or totally phony. I also learned diamonds using just a loupe rather than with an electronic probe. And I agree with your comments about gemstones as well - they look great in the bottom of an aquarium but unless I know I can sell it to someone, I would never put my own money out for them.
You might go over (or you may have already in the archives) some of the other good silver and gold products to buy and hold, or I would be happy to write something up for you. I give this advice out daily in my shop, where I do guns and coins. Many of my customers are buying both, and food storage is increasingly a topic of discussion as well. I do a lot of digging and searching for ammo, so I am one of the very few places in town with ammo on the shelf and guns on the rack. - G. in Las Vegas
I just read your comments regarding not holding jewelry for precious metals holdings. As one who makes his living (and has done so for decades) in jewelry, coins and guns, I fully agree with your comments. I have had many customers in over the years that had decided that jewelry was a good place to invest in precious metals, and after I went over it with them, they have all switched to good products.
There are some very good fake jewelry out there these days that will fool many, even with the use of a stone and acid. I learned the old fashioned way, using straight nitric acid rather that the acid mixes used today, which are much more fool-able and can tell much closer the karat and whether or not an items is solid, filled or totally phony. I also learned diamonds using just a loupe rather than with an electronic probe. And I agree with your comments about gemstones as well - they look great in the bottom of an aquarium but unless I know I can sell it to someone, I would never put my own money out for them.
You might go over (or you may have already in the archives) some of the other good silver and gold products to buy and hold, or I would be happy to write something up for you. I give this advice out daily in my shop, where I do guns and coins. Many of my customers are buying both, and food storage is increasingly a topic of discussion as well. I do a lot of digging and searching for ammo, so I am one of the very few places in town with ammo on the shelf and guns on the rack. - G. in Las Vegas
Dear Mr Rawles,
I just read the letter about using jewelry for barter on your web site and think your answer is right on. I am a jeweler in the Midwest and would like to add to your comments.
If someone wanted to sell jewelry now and buy items that would be easier to barter with during a post-dollar society here are some tips and insights.
1. Never send your jewelry away to a company advertising cash for gold on television. These people are crooks and you will get next to nothing for your gold.
2. The next worse place to take your jewelry for sale would be a pawn shop.
3. A jeweler or coin dealer is a better bet and will generally give you more money for what you have. Go to an independent jeweler, not a nationwide chain. Check with a couple of jewelers if you don’t have one you trust.
4. To get top dollar for your jewelry try selling it yourself. This has some drawbacks, it will take time and is a serious breach of OPSEC. Some jewelers may be willing to sell nicer pieces on consignment, this eliminates most of the OPSEC issues.
I can tell people how much they should get from a jeweler and why. Expect to get 50-65% of the actual market value of gold for your jewelry. Why so low you ask? There are a couple of reasons.
First the jeweler isn’t buying your gold, he’s buying your gold’s future. He doesn’t send the gold in to the refiner the day you sell it, he sends it in when he has several ounces to send at once. If the market falls between the time you get your money and when the gold is sent in the jeweler could loose money.
Refining gold isn’t free. First the package must be insured and shipped to the refiner. The refiner charges a fee to assay the gold, to determine its precious metal content. Then the refiner takes a cut off the top. The price varies from refiner to refiner but they generally get between 7-10%.
And finally the jeweler has to make a profit to keep his doors open.
A better bet for old, unused jewelry might be to have it melted down and made into something you will use.
Some things that will come in handy if you want to take in jewelry as payment in a post-collapse setting. Get an acid test kit and learn how to use it. These kits will give an approximate karat quality for 10-14-18k gold. Below is a list of how much gold is in each quality of gold.
10k = 41.66% gold (sometimes stamped 416)
14k = 58.5% gold (sometimes stamped 585)
18k = 75% gold (sometimes stamped 750)
It is illegal to put a quality mark on anything less than 10K gold in the USA. If you run across anything stamped 8K or 9K it probably came from Mexico and should be considered suspect. Always file the piece to be tested in an inconspicuous place, removing just a bit of metal, and put the acid on that spot. This will cut through any possible plating and give a test on the metal underneath. Get a scale, I’m sure most of you have a grain scale for measuring out powder charges, this works fine for weighing gold, just convert to ounces and remember that precious metals are weighed in Troy ounces not Avoirdupois ounces. [14 versus 16 ounces per pound.] A gram or pennyweight scale isn’t expensive and every house should have one. After weighing its just a matter of figuring out how much gold is really worth. Also get a good, strong magnet and check everything with it. There are lots of frauds out there, anything that sticks to a magnet is gold plated and should be considered junk.
A word of caution about gemstones, don’t give any money for gems unless you know exactly what you’re dealing with, and never trust an appraisal. Tell the seller that you aren’t interested in the stones and they can remove them from the setting if they want them. Don’t remove them yourself. Also don’t expect to get much for stones in jewelry you are selling unless they are exceptionally rare and valuable. Jewelers usually have many carats of diamonds on hand, they don’t need yours, and if they do buy them the stones will sit in inventory for months before being used.
I just read the letter about using jewelry for barter on your web site and think your answer is right on. I am a jeweler in the Midwest and would like to add to your comments.
If someone wanted to sell jewelry now and buy items that would be easier to barter with during a post-dollar society here are some tips and insights.
1. Never send your jewelry away to a company advertising cash for gold on television. These people are crooks and you will get next to nothing for your gold.
2. The next worse place to take your jewelry for sale would be a pawn shop.
3. A jeweler or coin dealer is a better bet and will generally give you more money for what you have. Go to an independent jeweler, not a nationwide chain. Check with a couple of jewelers if you don’t have one you trust.
4. To get top dollar for your jewelry try selling it yourself. This has some drawbacks, it will take time and is a serious breach of OPSEC. Some jewelers may be willing to sell nicer pieces on consignment, this eliminates most of the OPSEC issues.
I can tell people how much they should get from a jeweler and why. Expect to get 50-65% of the actual market value of gold for your jewelry. Why so low you ask? There are a couple of reasons.
First the jeweler isn’t buying your gold, he’s buying your gold’s future. He doesn’t send the gold in to the refiner the day you sell it, he sends it in when he has several ounces to send at once. If the market falls between the time you get your money and when the gold is sent in the jeweler could loose money.
Refining gold isn’t free. First the package must be insured and shipped to the refiner. The refiner charges a fee to assay the gold, to determine its precious metal content. Then the refiner takes a cut off the top. The price varies from refiner to refiner but they generally get between 7-10%.
And finally the jeweler has to make a profit to keep his doors open.
A better bet for old, unused jewelry might be to have it melted down and made into something you will use.
Some things that will come in handy if you want to take in jewelry as payment in a post-collapse setting. Get an acid test kit and learn how to use it. These kits will give an approximate karat quality for 10-14-18k gold. Below is a list of how much gold is in each quality of gold.
10k = 41.66% gold (sometimes stamped 416)
14k = 58.5% gold (sometimes stamped 585)
18k = 75% gold (sometimes stamped 750)
It is illegal to put a quality mark on anything less than 10K gold in the USA. If you run across anything stamped 8K or 9K it probably came from Mexico and should be considered suspect. Always file the piece to be tested in an inconspicuous place, removing just a bit of metal, and put the acid on that spot. This will cut through any possible plating and give a test on the metal underneath. Get a scale, I’m sure most of you have a grain scale for measuring out powder charges, this works fine for weighing gold, just convert to ounces and remember that precious metals are weighed in Troy ounces not Avoirdupois ounces. [14 versus 16 ounces per pound.] A gram or pennyweight scale isn’t expensive and every house should have one. After weighing its just a matter of figuring out how much gold is really worth. Also get a good, strong magnet and check everything with it. There are lots of frauds out there, anything that sticks to a magnet is gold plated and should be considered junk.
A word of caution about gemstones, don’t give any money for gems unless you know exactly what you’re dealing with, and never trust an appraisal. Tell the seller that you aren’t interested in the stones and they can remove them from the setting if they want them. Don’t remove them yourself. Also don’t expect to get much for stones in jewelry you are selling unless they are exceptionally rare and valuable. Jewelers usually have many carats of diamonds on hand, they don’t need yours, and if they do buy them the stones will sit in inventory for months before being used.
Be careful dealing with jewelry
after TEOTWAWKI. I know what I’m doing around jewelry and I’d much
rather deal in coins or other forms of wealth. Its easier and faster and I
could use the coins to trade with almost anyone. Remember, just because you are
willing to trade for jewelry doesn’t mean that someone will [later] want to
take it from you in trade. Take note of what my old boss used to say,
“Gold is a wonderful thing, but you can’t eat it and it doesn’t keep you warm
at night.
Keep your powder dry, - Kestrel
Keep your powder dry, - Kestrel
Hi Jim,
I have recently started a business buying and selling unused/unwanted jewelry, coins and PMs (precious metals). One thing that I have learned through the start-up process, is that in a TEOTWAWKI situation, being able to identify PM coins or jewelry's value will be a skill that could really come in handy. Having scales, acid testing kits, and electronic testing equipment such as the ones I bought from igem.com, could really give you an edge when the balloon goes up. I bought the GLR-24 tester that can determining the karat content of a piece from 6-24 karat gold, and can also detect the presence of platinum and silver. My acid kit (which only runs about $20), can identify gold as well, but the process is bit more time-consuming, however the advantage is that I will not be entirely reliant on a battery-operated electronic device when/if it breaks later on down the road. Using an acid testing kit takes practice, and you would be wise to learn how to do it now, and not try to figure it out under more stressful times that are sure to come.
I have recently started a business buying and selling unused/unwanted jewelry, coins and PMs (precious metals). One thing that I have learned through the start-up process, is that in a TEOTWAWKI situation, being able to identify PM coins or jewelry's value will be a skill that could really come in handy. Having scales, acid testing kits, and electronic testing equipment such as the ones I bought from igem.com, could really give you an edge when the balloon goes up. I bought the GLR-24 tester that can determining the karat content of a piece from 6-24 karat gold, and can also detect the presence of platinum and silver. My acid kit (which only runs about $20), can identify gold as well, but the process is bit more time-consuming, however the advantage is that I will not be entirely reliant on a battery-operated electronic device when/if it breaks later on down the road. Using an acid testing kit takes practice, and you would be wise to learn how to do it now, and not try to figure it out under more stressful times that are sure to come.
I also acquired a gem tester in the
kit (that detects diamonds, moissants, and zirconium gems), although the value
of these items would be suspect at best, as not many would trust their
authenticity, and thus, they would be hard to utilize as a form of currency
(but having the ability to test them can't hurt either as an opportunity could
present itself I suppose). In the kit I also received an electronic scale that
weighs in ounces, grams, and grains and a lighted loop for reading the
stampings.
Keep in mind that people can stamp whatever
they want on metals or jewelry, but that does not make it authentic!
Coins are even forged a lot (read: China) in today's world. The only way to
truly determine something's worth is to have the means to test it!!! I would
also recommend that all survival bloggers have a print-out of weight and
measure conversion charts, and that you become familiar with the process of
calculating the worth of 10K, 14K, 18K and 24K gold. It is also important to
know how to calculate the value of coinage and know their purity content for
their respective years they were minted. Remember, fiat currency will probably
become a thing of the past, and bartering skills as well as the ability to
identify what the other guys stuff is worth will be key to fair trade. - Jeff
in Michigan
JWR Replies: Thanks for that info. Here is some additional data from one
of my early FAQs that folks should keep on hand both in electronic form, and in
hard copy. Pack those pages with your touchstone, scale, Fisch
calipers,and acid test kit:
Silver dollar bags ($1,000 face
value) contain approximately 765 ounces of silver
Thus, if the "spot" price is $5.20/oz., a $1,000 bag would be worth $3,978, wholesale. (Or think of it as 3.97 times the face value of any single coin.) Small quantity purchases (less than $10 face value) get the buyer the worst rate (currently roughly 5.5 times face value.) Large purchases (multiple $1,000 bags) allow the best rate--roughly only 4 or 5% over the melt value
90% .50/.25/.10 bags ($1,000 face value) contain approximately 715 ounces of silver
40% half dollar bags ($1,000 face value) contain approximately 296 ounces of silver
Conversion Formulas:
Grams to pennyweights, multiply grams by .643
Pennyweights to grams, multiply pennyweights by 1.555
Grams to troy ounces, multiply grams by 0.32
Troy ounces to grams, multiply troy ounces by 31.103
Pennyweights to troy ounces, divide pennyweights by 20
Troy ounces to pennyweights, multiply troy ounces by 20
Grains to grams, multiply grains by .0648
Grams to grains, multiply grams by 15.432
Pennyweights to grains, multiply pennyweights by 24
Avoirdupois ounces to troy ounces, multiply avoirdupois ounces by .912
Troy ounces to avoirdupois ounces, multiply troy ounces by 1.097
Avoirdupois ounces to grams, multiply avoirdupois ounces by 28.35
Grams to Avoirdupois ounces, multiply grams by .035
Gold Purity Standards (by Karat):
24 K = 99.9% fine Pure Gold. Too weak for jewelry, but ideal for industrial use
23.5K = 97.92% fine
23 K = 95.83% fine
22.5K = 93.75% fine
22 K = 92.67% fine Some coin gold, though not that of the U.S., is 22K
21.6K = 90.00% fine The approximate purity of U.S. gold coins
21.5K = 89.58% fine
21 K = 87.50% fine
20.5K = 85.42% fine
20 K = 83.33% fine
19.5K = 81.25% fine
19 K = 79.17% fine
18.5K = 77.08% fine
18 K = 75.00% fine The highest grade of gold normally used in jewelry.
17.5K = 72.92% fine
17 K = 70.83% fine
16.5K = 68.75% fine
16 K = 66.67% fine 1/3 copper. This grade is commonly used in dental work.
15.5K = 64.58% fine
15 K = 62.50% fine
14.5K = 60.42% fine
14 K = 58.33% fine
13.5K = 56.25% fine
13 K = 54.17% fine
12.5K = 52.08% fine
12 K = 50.00% fine Half gold, half copper. Used extensively in low priced jewelry. (Will show brownish tinge in reaction to Nitric Acid.)
11.5K = 47.92% fine The percentage of copper now exceeds that of gold.
11 K = 45.83% fine
10.5K = 43.75% fine
10 K = 41.67% fine Used in some low-grade jewelry such as class rings. Shows a marked reaction to Nitric Acid.
9.5 K = 39.58% fine
9 K = 37.50% fine Not much more than one-third gold.
Silver Purity Standards:
.9999 fine "Pure Silver"
.9584 fine "Britannia Silver" Often used in manufacturing.
.9250 fine "Sterling Silver" Normally stamped "Sterling" or ".925"
.9000 fine "Coin Silver" Some antique items are marked "Dollar" or " D" or ".900" or "Coin Silver" to indicate they were made from melted coins.
" German Silver" is +/- 97% base metal and only +/- 3% silver, and thus has no bullion value.
Exactly what silver or gold coins will bring you in barter will depend on the times. Immediately after a collapse, coins may not be worth much. As law and order is gradually restored, they will probably be worth more and more. The bottom line is the old legal maxim: "The value of a thing is what that thing will bring."
Thus, if the "spot" price is $5.20/oz., a $1,000 bag would be worth $3,978, wholesale. (Or think of it as 3.97 times the face value of any single coin.) Small quantity purchases (less than $10 face value) get the buyer the worst rate (currently roughly 5.5 times face value.) Large purchases (multiple $1,000 bags) allow the best rate--roughly only 4 or 5% over the melt value
90% .50/.25/.10 bags ($1,000 face value) contain approximately 715 ounces of silver
40% half dollar bags ($1,000 face value) contain approximately 296 ounces of silver
Conversion Formulas:
Grams to pennyweights, multiply grams by .643
Pennyweights to grams, multiply pennyweights by 1.555
Grams to troy ounces, multiply grams by 0.32
Troy ounces to grams, multiply troy ounces by 31.103
Pennyweights to troy ounces, divide pennyweights by 20
Troy ounces to pennyweights, multiply troy ounces by 20
Grains to grams, multiply grains by .0648
Grams to grains, multiply grams by 15.432
Pennyweights to grains, multiply pennyweights by 24
Avoirdupois ounces to troy ounces, multiply avoirdupois ounces by .912
Troy ounces to avoirdupois ounces, multiply troy ounces by 1.097
Avoirdupois ounces to grams, multiply avoirdupois ounces by 28.35
Grams to Avoirdupois ounces, multiply grams by .035
Gold Purity Standards (by Karat):
24 K = 99.9% fine Pure Gold. Too weak for jewelry, but ideal for industrial use
23.5K = 97.92% fine
23 K = 95.83% fine
22.5K = 93.75% fine
22 K = 92.67% fine Some coin gold, though not that of the U.S., is 22K
21.6K = 90.00% fine The approximate purity of U.S. gold coins
21.5K = 89.58% fine
21 K = 87.50% fine
20.5K = 85.42% fine
20 K = 83.33% fine
19.5K = 81.25% fine
19 K = 79.17% fine
18.5K = 77.08% fine
18 K = 75.00% fine The highest grade of gold normally used in jewelry.
17.5K = 72.92% fine
17 K = 70.83% fine
16.5K = 68.75% fine
16 K = 66.67% fine 1/3 copper. This grade is commonly used in dental work.
15.5K = 64.58% fine
15 K = 62.50% fine
14.5K = 60.42% fine
14 K = 58.33% fine
13.5K = 56.25% fine
13 K = 54.17% fine
12.5K = 52.08% fine
12 K = 50.00% fine Half gold, half copper. Used extensively in low priced jewelry. (Will show brownish tinge in reaction to Nitric Acid.)
11.5K = 47.92% fine The percentage of copper now exceeds that of gold.
11 K = 45.83% fine
10.5K = 43.75% fine
10 K = 41.67% fine Used in some low-grade jewelry such as class rings. Shows a marked reaction to Nitric Acid.
9.5 K = 39.58% fine
9 K = 37.50% fine Not much more than one-third gold.
Silver Purity Standards:
.9999 fine "Pure Silver"
.9584 fine "Britannia Silver" Often used in manufacturing.
.9250 fine "Sterling Silver" Normally stamped "Sterling" or ".925"
.9000 fine "Coin Silver" Some antique items are marked "Dollar" or " D" or ".900" or "Coin Silver" to indicate they were made from melted coins.
" German Silver" is +/- 97% base metal and only +/- 3% silver, and thus has no bullion value.
Exactly what silver or gold coins will bring you in barter will depend on the times. Immediately after a collapse, coins may not be worth much. As law and order is gradually restored, they will probably be worth more and more. The bottom line is the old legal maxim: "The value of a thing is what that thing will bring."
Boric acid
Boric acid
A wiki link on the subject can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boric_acid
Also an Amazon.com link is
provided, mostly for the customer
reviews: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DLQCMBK/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is one more link that provides
a recipe on making boric acid eye wash: http://askville.amazon.com/method-making-boric-acid-eye-wash/AnswerViewer.do?requestId=61759993
Poster's comment:
250 ml = 8 and a half oz.,
rounded off to a manageable volume.
How I Lost the Battle of the South China Sea
How I Lost the Battle
of the South China Sea
Here's one link to a war game story: https://medium.com/war-is-boring/c47b367a1de2
Resurrection
Resurrection
A wiki link on the subject can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resurrection
Assassination of John F. Kennedy
Assassination of John F. Kennedy
Here's a wiki link to a still very popular subject and conjecture: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Assassination_of_John_F._Kennedy
Shelf life of boots and such things
Shelf life of boots and such things
Here's a link and discussion that may
interest some:
http://www.whiteblaze.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-8954.html
David Gray (musician)
David Gray (musician)
A wiki link on the subject can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Gray_(musician)
How to make rope
How to make rope
Here's three links that may help the
reader:
http://survival.outdoorlife.com/blogs/survivalist/2012/07/how-make-rope-natural-fibers
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Homemade-Rope
http://usscouts.org/scoutcraft/BoyScoutRopemaking.pdf
Note that
the last link takes a pdf reader to read. The second link assumes one has
access to many things, but think about substitutes, like twigs for pencils, for
example.
A matter of perspective
A matter of perspective
The famous line from the 1800's about
everything that can be know is already known seems silly in retrospect. Yet
that is how we humans are, it seems. I am confident the "line" was
sincerely believed, though naive it turns out.
Scientists keep discovering new
things, and evolving new theories that keep perspective in mind about what is
really certain.
Even old stone age tools, like an
adze, seem to be used even in 2013.
Then add in the human factor, like
what is popular or even believed, and that complicates a lot of decision
making. Even humans still get lovelorn, too.
And all I want to do in is grow some
food, and make some electricity (for my own energy purposes).
Black players in American professional football
Black players in American
professional football
A wiki link on the subject in general can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_players_in_American_professional_football
Hippocratic Oath
Hippocratic Oath
A wiki link on the subject can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hippocratic_Oath
Monday, October 28, 2013
Soup kitchen recipe ideas
Soup kitchen recipe ideas
Here's a few links on the subject:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/762867
http://www.food.com/cookbook/adelas-soup-kitchen-55635
http://www.hungercoalition.org/recipes
http://www.thefoodbank.org/category/category/foodbank-cookbook/
Poster'
s comments:
1) Many of these recipes sound pretty good to me
even during regular times.
2)
During my active duty Marine time, these recipes would have been pretty good
chow for about any meal.
3)
This is a Golden Rule type of place...hence even former government employees
are welcome during hard times, if hard
times even occur. The catch is getting here, which will be difficult in all
likelihood. I myself have been through road blocks and post typhoon recovery,
for examples.
4) The standards imposed are those that I follow
myself during hard times, too. Hence if these standards are too low for the
eater, they are welcome to walk away and do try do better elsewhere.
5)
My initial rehearsal soup kitchen meal of fake ham (TVP) and baby lima beans in
a tomato base soup (with local spring water) (with some Crisco type fat for flavor) is
starting to look better and better to me. I did enjoy it, and my yard dogs did
enjoy it, including the rehearsal meal, too.
6)
Even using my large aluminum cooking pot over a wood cooking fire to make such
a meal is probable, at least where I live.
7)
Good health and sanitation practices apply, always.
8)
Expect, at least initially, serving in plastic cups and using sporks to help
eat it, too.
9)
Hopefully, hard times where you and I live might be months, and not years.
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